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I have a passport 9500i and I dont use it in my LR4. 1. I drive slow in my LR4 and 2. I do think the radar detector has issues behind the heated windscreen. The GPS also is super flakey. It's a great detector though. I should probably sell mine.

Some more ideas for you... I actually think having the polymax flooring helps with wind resistance a bit. It doesn't allow as much disruption on the rear parts of the rack. The key thing you need though is a very good wind fairing. It helps a lot with noise and must be doing pretty well...

Welcome to the polymax flooring club...haha. Great stuff really. It is light, strong and no rust worries. If you use heavy duty zip ties to secure it, make sure and check them (or replace them) about every year or so. They can get a bit brittle. I have also used u-brackets and stainless...

I have a Traxide on my LR4 and I also have the dual batt monitor from luna.... (Yes the battery tie down bracket is off in this picture)

The dilemma for me is that black would look good on the roof rack, but orange would be preferred for actually using them.

I need two sets also, but the price has kept me from buying. I am interested if the price is right.

This is what I am referring to... I just use some big washers and wing nuts on some plastic mounts. The mounts move forward/back and the wing nuts let the light be adjusted left/right.

Whoa.. Cool. Makes me washers and wingnut approach look lame. Ha-ha. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

It turns out that the light bar casing is grounded. So is the rack. I bought a nice switch/relay kit for the front bar. All is well. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Why do you bother posting here if you are just going to be grumpy and passive aggressive? Upgrading headlights is just fine and I am sure people are interested in that option also, but light bars provide a different purpose than just upgraded headlights. That should be obvious. This forum...

My solution to this issue was to get a 37" single row ~1" high light bar and fit it under my rack between the fairing and the roof. Fit is perfect and the roof blocks the light on the hood except for a tiny bit from the side flood parts. It is only about 100 watts, but its plenty bright for my...

I just wired up some rear work lights (OPT7 C2) with an OPT7 wireless remote. It has 4 dimmer modes and strobe also. I bought two, as it turns out the remotes are not unique per set, so I can only use one. Also, it didnt work at all with my 37" light bar. It just turns on and the remote does...

here is a better shot of the yakima (i think) mounts. again, not the final bolts/nuts that i used and no washers shown.

This doesn't actually show the final hardware I used, I was just looking for alignment and where things would go here. I wanted them long enough so I could use big washers to support the underside of the plastic mounts, and lock nuts, but not long enough that they were too close to the glass...

About 15 very stout heavy duty ties, but they only support the polymax. They have nothing to do with the EO2 mounts which attach directly to the rack. No load is put on the polymax. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Maybe at the sills, but not at the diffs.

I'd be interested. I'll shoot you an email soon. I'm in Iowa. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Payment sent for one Tan with black logo

I never thought that the draw from the isolator would be much of an issue.... hrm... math time! The aux battery alone that I use is an Odyssey 34-PC1500T-A, with 20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah) of 68. Using Peukerts capacity calculation (http://planetcalc.com/2283/) you can calculate a rough...

These are new to my vehicle, but come recommended by other LR4 owners. Top AUX (traxide kit), Bottom Starter batt.