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Probably. That would be the smart thing to do.

Look at how your bed is mounted. Should already have the flex issue under control. Just yank the axles and springs off and bolt it to the bed using some bolts and springs.

Metal on the dipstick could be lifter/cam issue. Hardly a good reason to replace the whole engine. Needs more diagnosis before condemning the whole engine.

Anything is shippable. There are tens of thousands of miles of Forest Service and BLM roads here that were built for resource extraction, mining and logging, a 17 ton truck is lightweight compared to what the roads were built to handle.

Growing up we had a family friend who was stationed in Italy guarding a supply depot at an airfield when the war ended. He said they buried thousands of spare airplane parts, just dug big holes with dozers and pushed the stuff in. Look at some of the pictures of the stuff the US supplied for...

Love the picture of the speedometer with the fuel guage reading empty.?

Nice set if narrow Axletechs and sand tires. Definitely not as many axles and transfercases around like a few years ago and the prices have gone up. And I'm all for you making stupid decisions, it makes my decisions look better when my wife calls me out on them.?

A fat saucy wench in the front of any truck will add good traction for when you get stuck.? My personal preference for a road truck that goes offroad is a torsen. Don't even know it's there until you need it.

My dad did that back in the early 70s with his 67 Ford F250 on a 72 crewcab 4x4 chassis. Had a 9' flatbed on it. It didn't add as much length as you're looking for. You'd be better off looking at the class 4/5 cab and chassis trucks.