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A second chance in life: isn't that what so many of us wish for? I stood next to the dusty truck, smiling broadly, trying not to laugh at the absurdity of our situation. Donna had settled down a bit, but was still chatting nervously with one of the Land Rover guys as Bill and I pored over the...

I scribed the contours onto sheets of cardboard...it worked beautifully. The support legs are lengths of 2-inch ABS pipe. I used t-nuts to connect short lengths of chain to turnbuckles which anchor to pre-existing tie-down points.

I tend to grossly overload my Gen 3, whether on trips or dragging trailerloads of gravel or building supplies. I've never felt that the truck needed any additional assistance with braking.

By following all of the above suggestions I have welded a fair amount on both frame and body and have never had any complications.

What I DO NOT drive around with on a daily basis are red shackles, high-lift jack, fuel cans and a shovel. :rolleyes:

1stDeuce, above (with the diode) describes a very simple circuit that only requires one wire from the cockpit to the rear of the vehicle. M35A2, above (with only a SPDT switch) describes a very simple circuit that only requires one of two things: (1) a wire from the backup light power feed run...

Though I designed them to be quick and easy to remove, the rack and sleeping platform have stayed since last summer. Awning, water & fuel cans, and numbered boxes of kit are in the shed, ready to go.

Serious overlanders only need as much lift as they NEED. Do you NEED more lift? Lots of folks feel obliged to lift their trucks. Get out and use it. If, after having taken it to the places that interest you, you feel it needs lift, then by all means go for it. The stock suspension can't...

The diff needs servicing one way or another. The oil may look good but what sort of oil is it?

+1

Not a very helpful answer, is it? My Gen III is a unibody vehicle with solid front recovery points, so there's obviously a less dramatic way to do it than selling out.

The PO had fitted my '01 with P-rated Geolanders and they were absolutely horrible, wallowing and mushy and downright frightening. I replaced them as soon as I got home from the fly-n-drive. I am extremely happy with my Toyo Open Country A/Ts in 265/75-16. They're wonderful on both dry and wet...

Decent prep and rattle can paint will get you what you need, but you'll be retouching regularly. Brush-on Rustoleum or similar are much, much more durable.

You could cut it without ripping the carpet off and put a piano hinge in it. I did that with my platform for the exact same reason and it works beautifully. I put the support legs for the fold-down section on hinges.

Well, from the physics standpoint, it takes exactly the same amount of work to winch out fast or slow. Same number of Joules, same amount of friction in the recovery system, same amount of heat generated. You can't cheat the universe and get away with spending less energy by doing this quickly...

The high lift with the wheel attachment works fine for this. You just need a jackstand. I also keep some 2x6 step chocks aboard for leveling the truck for sleep; these make dandy Jack pads.

Hundreds of pages on the subject, not specific to any one vehicle. Why would a Gen III Montero be unique among all the rest with respect to tire noise?

No matter what sort of insulation, if any, you choose, the number one thing that will prevent condensation is ventilation. Ideas for the heat: put a tarp over the shell to shade it from the sun, or erect a stand-up awning over it. You're unlikely to be able to insulate it enough to be...

I dunno, the prevailing user reports say otherwise. Big discussion in General Vehicle Mods.

Exactly why we're putting one on. See what Bill Burke has to say about Superwinch. Of course, just like Warn, they have both pricey and not-too-pricey models.