Lots of progress has been made in the past week. The wiring is 90% complete, with only finish work left to do on it. There was a ton of repair work to do on the electrical and while I was in there, I cleaned it all up and installed connectors in various places to make future repairs easier...
Thanks. I have the MBZ engine for sale...!
The in-line VSS would have been a nice option except for the fact that to get it to send the correct 17 pulse code required for the manual trans computer, I would have had to run a converter box from Dakota Digital. This setup is much simpler and cleaner.
Thanks everyone for the tips. I was able to locate the wires I needed. There are a few "extra" wires that have been previously clipped, and I hate the thought of leaving them un-terminated, but I've come up with a solution. I'm going to pull the tape back to be able to bundle them all in one...
Help please.
I need help. Doing the wiring now and trying to identify all of the clipped wires has got me scratching my head. Remember, the MBZ engine was in it when I got it.
Questions:
What side of the engine bay is the original temp sender wire?
Color?
Ignition power wire?
Color?
Does...
No problem on this truck. This project is different though. There is that huge chasm under the stock bellhousing where the stock flywheel used to go that allowed me to tuck it up higher than normal.
Regardless of the bellhousing area, it all really depends on how much suspension travel you...
Thank you Stan. Roger that on the details. Remember when I called for advice? And I told you what I thought it might cost to do this install? Ok, so we've had some scope creep, but we're no where near that original dollar amount. Thanks again for your up-front guidance.
Update - the truck is on...
I don't know if you've ever had anything custom upholstered, but it's not necessarily as expensive as you might think. I bet you could have a local guy redo those seat bottoms for a couple hundred bucks.
Truck's coming along nicely.
Thank you guys for watching and commenting.
I forgot to mention, I did plumb the steam port into the radiator, as per Stan's suggestion, by welding a 1/4 NPT bung next to the filler neck and adding a 1/4" nipple.
Here's a pic:
One of the owner's original complaints was driveline vibrations. Most FJ60's use a u-joint at both ends of the t-case, and installing CV's at both outputs would certainly help with that. Using Toyota double cardan CV's is something I try to adhere to on all my builds, no matter if it's a daily...
Getting the proper VSS to communicate with the manual trans ECU was trickier than I thought. I called APT instruments and they had a solution, but it was too complex. Of course there's always Dakota Digital, but gadgets don't really do it for me. But I found a really cool solution. Just down the...
Again...Photobucket leaves much to be desired. Some of these pics are showing sideways, even though I oriented them properly. Hopefully a refresh will cure this.
Prepping the space to accept the new tank was rather disappointing. I had to cut the tailpipe off at the muffler because it wanted to share the space with the new tank. Such is the nature of my business. Nothing ever goes as planned.
Once the tank was in, the new fuel lines, filler neck and...
Using a fuel pump supplied by Tilden Motorsports and a module from Tanks, Inc, the fuel pump install was a snap. I decided to simplify the install and utilize the fuel return that was built into the tank, thereby reducing the amount of parts assembled on the pump module. Since the tank had a...
Plumbing the fuel system and installing the new fuel tank from Man-A-Fre was fun. I don't know why, but I like bending lines and doing that detail work.
The new fuel tank came just about ready for the new EFI pump. All I had to do was locate the sump, cut a hole, tack weld the pump module...
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