I love this truck so much that I'm going to build one for myself. I think I'll do an auto trans in mine. Thank you!
Hey John. Thanks for watching. I'm still picking away at it, but it's going home in about a week. I do have plenty of updates for you guys too.
Let me know if you'd like more...
I sent the tach out to get the electronics modified to interface with the new motor, and also to have a new face painted with a larger scale. They have sent me some proofs and we finally decided on a style, now I'm just waiting to see the delivery truck pull up with a box from APT Instruments...
The truck is at My friend's A/C shop, JetAir in Shingle Springs, getting hoses and a final once over. We discovered it has a bad A/C amplifier and we've scoured the new parts market for a replacement to no avail. I did find a place in Canada that can repair it, but it won't be cheap. We have a...
Electrolysis is common with aluminum radiators and you need to be sure that the radiator has a good ground. The LC has rubber isolated radiator mounting, so I made a single ground strap just for the radiator.
Inside the cab, wiring behind the dash was cleaned up from the previous MBZ engine install. We also ran a couple extra independent circuits for the stereo, in-dash USB charger, etc. The tach signal had to be wired into the dash harness and the ARB wiring was re-routed to make it cleaner. Molex...
After mounting the ECU, I had to find a place to run the bundle of wires into the cab. The main focus here was to keep the two harnesses separate. Having a standalone engine harness means squat if you hard wire it into the body harness. Future repairs are much easier if the two can be removed...
Finding a place to put the ECU under the dash wash not going to be easy. COnsidering that these units were mounted under the hood of the trucks they came out of, I figured that was where it was going to be. If the truck gets submerged to the point that the ECU gets drenched, he's got bigger...
For some reason, the front shaft hit the crossmember at full droop. So I took a bite out of it.
All clear on the LC front.
Rear shaft mounted up...
...using new Toyota bolts. Anyone who has ever purchased these knows how expensive they are.
Trying to figure out where we left off...
This is the detail part of the job. Brackets, wiring, running cables, hoses, making sure everything fits and makes sense all has to be part of the job. If I were building for myself, I would probably leave more loose ends, but you can't do that when the...
If you want to buy an overseas diesel Land Cruiser for the cool factor, that's great. If you want to drive it a lot and buy over the counter parts, I would consider buying a nice, stock NA market FJ80 and swapping in a 5.3 LS V8. I'm just wrapping up a conversion on a FJ60 and it is definitely...
Thanks guys.
I sent the tach out and I'm working on the A/C system now. It should be done...soon? With pics, I promise.
In the meantime, here's a fourwheeler.com feature on the BJ74 I built a few months ago. Enjoy -...
This month's fourwheeler.com features an article on the BJ74. Here's a link - http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1611-1987-bj74-land-cruiser-built-to-be-even-more-unique/
BTW- I've been driving the truck and I am sold. This is going to be my next family rig for sure. I need to sell my '83 pickup first. Of course that means I have to finish it...
I thought about printing a sticker myself, but I want it to look absolutely perfect. Chuck at APT Instruments in MN is going to tackle the job for me. The cost is about $350 for the electrical and art work, but that's about $200 less than other companies I called.
Thanks for the offer tacollie.
Anybody here know of a shop that can paint me a new tach face for the stock FJ60 tach? The client wants to use the original gauge, but it only reads to 4300 RPMs. The LS spins freely to @ 6500.
I've got a call into APT Instruments and he's going to let me know, but it's nice to have options.
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