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Don't forget to get an alignment after you've cranked up the torsion bar bolts.

"Got here as fast as I could"- is that some kind of slow Chevy joke? In any case, welcome aboard.

Looks like a fantastic trip. Almost anywhere you look on this forum you'll see people who have to have the "right" gear, the latest overpriced overlanding gadget....... It's a little silly.

Not to start a Chevy vs Ford flame war, but I've noticed on this forum transmission failures seem to be common with various full sized Chevys (I only visit this board that has Chevy traffic). But on the Ford side of the fence, transmission failures don't seem to be near the norm as they are...

I have the same Big O's on my Expedition. They were on it when I bought it. I have no real complaints to be honest. They seem to wear like iron and were pretty good in the snow last winter. I've had them in some light offroad and they did fine. I've read they have a fantastic warranty. BUT...

Most true mud tires are really bad in the snow (on the street anyway) due to a fraction of biting edges in the tire lugs. And most M/S tires are pretty crappy at everything. But to the OP, a heavy rig on lots of gravel will chew up any tire. BFG KO2 are super popular. I have the original KO...

I didn't see you are in Denver as well. Take a look at the Rocky Mountain Overland link in my signature. There are a couple trips planned in the coming weeks. Also, the 2nd Tuesday of each month is a meet'n'greet in Arvada. The supercab longbed is definitely going to limit some of the trails...

If your current rig is reliable, it's the best kind of overlanding rig. Sounds like it needs tires. Do those and then spend money on gas for your trips. Upgrade based on necessity.

I have basically the same truck in Expedition form. I have 198k miles. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across country. All the replacement parts mentioned seem good. If the coils were Motorcraft, those are the best as aftermarket can be problematic. The 5.4L is a good motor. It's not crazy...

Ever wonder why renting a normal car with a manual is impossible? And then you want to potentially put that manual transmission vehicle into an environment where the driver will need to be really good with the clutch to avoid burning it up? At least a JK Rubicon has a brake lock that keeps...

Really good looking bumper. I like how you kept the factory looking "pocket" where the license plate goes.

Added an iPad mount to my dash. It's a Ram Mount with a surface mount. Suction cup mounts are OK but it puts the iPad farther away, they aren't as stable and I can't use my sun shade with it stuck to the window. Only the surface mount ball is permanently in place- the arm and iPad holder get...

Don't get caught up with everyone's mega-capable rigs on this site. This Explorer, with a little lift and A/T tires, outfitted like you described above should be a perfect way to get out and explore with your family. There really isn't need for more. The best money spent on a rig is gas in...

I also have an 80-series snorkel on my rig. Mine sits even farther forward than yours but to move it back to the A-pillar would make connecting the snorkel to the airbox pretty challenging: there is no room to make a couple of bends in the air pipe between the fender and engine bay in that...

It's a trail called Red Cone. http://www.traildamage.com/trails/index.php?id=9 One of my favorites.

They help only in open loop ECU operation. An easy way to gain some power is to lean out the air/fuel mixture. In closed loop ECU operation, the sensors are all talking to each other and constantly adjusting for as close to a stoichiometric burn as possible. In closed loop, you add more air...

Looks really good. You'll have to compare the Trans Temp on the new gauge vs the ScanGauge and see how they differ. Most factory coolant gauges point "to the middle" when my ScanGauge is still reading like 130 degrees. And as the coolant continues to warm up those 70 extra degrees, the...

worthy upgrade!

The blend door is actually an easy fix. Shops want to charge you like $1000 to remove the dash to get to it but it can be done with a Dremel, 45 minutes and about $40.