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http://www.insulation4less.com/Insulation4lessProduct-4-Prodex-Under-Floor---Carpet.aspx#fragment5 Here is there underlayment. Not near as good. I would do foam or rubber mat flooring. It is about as good as you can do in a 1/2 inch of space. The anti-fatique mats actually have decent R values.

There are two kinds of welders that will work on gas tanks--those that know exactly what they are doing and those that don't know any better.... Sorry you got that kind...

Either works, depends what the rest of the seat and storage layout is. One thing about vertical in most vans is you can use the curve of the outer wall to your advantage--a vertical cabinet door and you just happen to have the widest portion right at the action and scope and taper to almost...

A cut-off tool is way better for dealing with trail or accident carnage--air, 110, or cordless depending on what you have. A bolt-cutter is very limited in legal usefulness. A chainsaw can be very useful, but a good crosscut will get the job done (eventually) if you have a space/weight...

Michelin LTX for on pavement, any condition. Bridgestone duellers for pavement and fireroads.

If you use a car-trunk style hinge, you can probably get a 6 1/2-7 foot headroom at the hinge without going all the way to 9 foot

Not much to worry about aluminum for acidic foods while you are eating, unless you are grinding your steak knife into the plate. Your food isn't there long enough or hot enough to do anything bad. A bit of the answer depends on how you store and clean your gear. My utensil choices usually...

One more thought.... That spot at the edge of the roofline where the pop-up tent attaches is gonna leak. bad. You may be able to put a gutter system and raise lip on the frame to minimize issues, but noodle on that one. A swing UP hatch may work better--lots of minivans in the junkyard to...

Those of you thinking DIY, remember shipping is a killer!!! I thought about it, and figured it would cost me MORE to DIY, and that was assuming I didn't screw something up...

I need me one (or two) of those cabinets. Those are PERFECT for my needs.

That is SWEET. Definitely need stabilizer jacks on the back of the trailer to run the slide out and then jacks for the end of the slide to stabilize the kitchen. I wouldn't put in a roof fan, I would install it in the back wall so it vented out across the kitchen area. No roof penetrations...

Just like the Gamma lids you can buy for 5 gallon buckets. But the square one sure would pack better. They seal completely airtight, so you can be aroma free until you get a chance to unload it...

I agree with Toolman (or actually his Dad) TO A POINT. NO WAY would I go out and buy a programmer or chip or bolt-on for a brand new engine or vehicle. Now after 10 years of real-world behind them, I would buy one of the reputable programmers. Many of them will actually pay for themselves...

A rooftop tent with fully screened annex and a couple cots for whoever is on the ground level. It is a two story vacation home wherever you park it. A couple 12v fans do WONDERS if you can blow the air under the cots as well. You can put it on the Dodge you have. $1800 for the HUGE CVT...

Well, no reason you can't do a shackle flip, except they usually suck towing... To get F series power out of a van, you need to figure out how to dump the heat. I figured (during my daydreaming) that a small body lift (like from a handicap van conversion), fender exhaust ports like the new...

In dash mics work OK at best, and that is if the radio is placed optimally in the dash.

I am not in that much of a rush. I will "settle" for a normal RTT if the trip comes together before AT does. I haven't had a good batting average lately for trips actually happening :( The FP jr would have part of the benefit--the hard shell--but not the Habitat tent design. That tent...

What gear ratio? Open or locker? Manual hubs? Stock van 8 on 6.5 lug pattern?

I would much prefer an AT version, for a multitude of reasons...

C clamps have been the PERMANENT solution for guys that stay on road. They will get you home as long as you A) buy decent ones, B) torque them down right, and C) recheck them after a few miles just like straps and lugnuts.