Search results

My guess, if they don't have one specifically for a 4BT, one for a 6BT would work, just not using all of the studs. That said, if the head or block is warped, it won't matter with studs or not.

Agree. If you have having this much issues with head gaskets leaks, my guess is the head and/or block is warped. Another idea, which I have heard happening (not specific to the Cummins) is if the head bolts are stretched, they will never hold torque. I am not sure on the Cummins but I know...

Ah, that makes a lot more sense.

Yeah, really don't understand why people in the US put the camper door on the driver side. It has to be one of the dumbest ideas as it makes getting in and out when parked on the side of the road, a real pain and on a narrow road, dangerous. Is it so hard to get out of the drivers door and...

From what I read, once you glue in Thinsulate, it's not going anywhere. Backing side faces to the inside of the camper, open fibers are what gets glued to the walls. Yeah, the Havelock just gets stuffed in, which is why it will compress/fall over time.

Knocked out another small project on the camper. Installed the rear assist grab handle. Ended up using Riv-nuts installed into backing plates that were riveted to the door frame. Should be strong and allow for easy replacement should that ever be needed. Just by luck, the angle of the grab...

I had considered the Havelock wool but doing a lot of research, it seems the couple common issues were the smell if it got wet and it tends to compress downward on vertical surfaces when bouncing around on rough roads. I decided to go with Thinsulate which does not have those issues. Ordered...

I replaced my Norcold (Dometic) fridge in my FWC with a NovaKool and it worked great for the 3-4 years I had that rig. I currently have another NovaKool sitting in the box, going into my current build. Been very happy with them!

This thing is so freaking awesome! Would loved to start with something like this!!!

If you'll take $100 shipped, I'm your huckleberry.

If you don't need 4WD, a Skoolie is a good choice to build out. So many size options you can find the one that fits your needs. There are some really good builds on YouTube

I seriously need access to a workshop like this!!!! Top of my box sitting at 9.5', it's really hard to get up to work on roof stuff, when working on a sloped driveway.... :(

Sorry to see this up for sale. I loved following the build and adventures this rig went on. Even my wife enjoyed watching (well maybe it was Kicker and not the rig). Good luck with the sale.

Okay thanks all!!! Great suggestions on using VHB just to hold while the Sika cures.

Hi all, Need to pick brains for a moment. My M1010 project is slowly moving along and I am getting close to the point I need to attach the inner wall panels. I have researched a few things but really don't have a clear winner on what to use. I am using .090" FRP panels to do the ceiling and...

Nice! What brand of windows are those?

I think the question was, what is the GVWR, not how much it currently weighs.

Hahaha... I always seem to forget about that extra 50 lbs. Fully gutted (i.e. no interior panels, wiring, etc.) mine came in at 6180 lbs. The A/C unit on the box is said to be about 200 lbs. so in theory, without that, you would be under 6000 lbs.

FYI - if anyone buys this and wants the pass side interior box for inside the ambo box, I have that removed from mine and they can have it for free!

106" long x 75" wide x 65" tall. I did a roof raise on mine, which got me to 72" tall. Pics in my build thread.