Search results

good looking box for the money; light weight is a plus That's a really good price for an underbody box. It looks to be made from the same thickness aluminum as a tongue box I bought (I think from the same supplier), and it was well made. But, if I were trying to lift it, I would use wide, steel...

have you tried a Unijack 6000 all-in-one;it'll be useful on most surfaces I didn't know about that Harbor Freight aluminum jack w/skid plate. I could've used it many times in the past. A great idea, and probably much lighter than what I once carried with me. I used to haul a std. floor jack...

just start with removing axles, hangers, & springs; go on from there That axle set-up looks worse than mine did when I started out. That might be more than surface rust, and the hardware might be past redemption. you want to flip that axle to make the deck height lower ?; spring-over-axle...

project finished; N.U.S. READY FOR "EMERGENCY" USE Done. Not used yet, or tested (except with bottled water; with a much stronger flow than it'll see again). No leaks, drips, or errors. That's what this systems all about. When finished using, cleaning, and stowing away, the used water...

heavier than most (mine); heavier than all (yours)? I only wanted a hardtop tent, with mattress and cooling/heating, since I'm done with tents. We had a similar intent, to begin. and strong was always the underlying principle.2"x3"x.250" for your frame is way overkill, at 7.11 lbs. per foot...

N.U.S. install started; looks like it'll work when finished Raison de etre, for the whole idea: I have a 4'x8' squareback trailer. At the time I started building it, my body worked better than it does now. I saw no need for indoor facilities, at that time. Man up! Time passed. Time waits for no...

bigger is better, and closer helps too; tablet- viewing GPS/MAPS while driving There is no compromise between visible screen space and ease of viewing...bigger is better. You want to be able to quickly acquire the information on the display, and everyone knows that larger screen size fosters...

spray away your rust before it starts I do the same thing, after it rains, just to make sure it will function when needed. I spray the pins and every place a moving part attaches. I carry a can of PB Blaster (or WD-40) in my truck always, along with just about everything else for minor maintenance.

not MREs, but suits my use, my food list; and examining my gear says I go too far I agree with that; my camping, both in my teens and twenties (and a little into my thirties), was impromptu and packing was in a hurry and incomplete. Often, I/we would stop at a convenience store just before...

quick, cheap (from misc. scraps) mounting for Hi-Lift in bed of '04 Silverado I had the same idea, a few weeks ago, but I ended up using the truck crane post (crane bottom, with lifting arm removed- I leave it there, a reminder of my racing and car building days; you never know when you'll need...

that's why they're on the "boob" tube It bothered me, too; after haggling the previous owner down to a great price for a vehicle like that (if only I could find such a deal, here in DFW), then the two guys (including the often deferred to "expert", who seems lost) showed little...

exigent emergencies at night, in the rain, etc. (thinking -of going- outside my box) I camp alone, and often need facilities two or three times a night. I'm old and retired; nothing works like it once did, especially my plumbing. It may also have something to do with my always having a Bubba...

LT tires only! no ST or P for heavy truck (or van) Referring to the linked chart: I found one ST tire (GY Endurance) listed among them. Should not be used on a truck, or van, because of the sidewall stiffness. A LT tire is the way to go; not quite as stiff a sidewall, but better performance...

use precaution when routing power wire; especially near any fuel lines! Not exactly the same conditions, but, I ran an unprotected 12vdc positive cable (2/0 welding) from my rear-mounted batteries to the engine, on my '66 Chevelle drag car. I ran it down the passenger side, tucked under, and...

should've thought of this before; problem solved! I like to re-purpose material for other uses. Half-just being cheap, and half-just being different. That's always been the way I do things. I re-purposed conveyor belting as mudflaps, yesterday, just as I had used it before as a cover over the...

added conveyor belt material as mudflaps Here are the pictures, for better or worse, this is what I'm using, for the next month at least. Left shows bungee for quieting stabilizer & powercord entry into galley. Grey conveyor belt is very stiff, should deflect well.

further explanation of my ad hoc (and "hack") engineering Actually, I used my angle grinder with a cut-off disc to roughly carve out an opening in the receiver tube, to fit over/under the round frame section that runs thru the sides of the frame rail running front-to-back. I then...

About three years ago, I made a weird front trailer pushbar (as an experiment, a welding practice piece, and a back-saving device), I never did get around to buying a factory - made front receiver hitch. I haven't used the trailer much since, nor had to move it a lot, either, but it still saved...

another day, another problem: the joys of low $$$$ fabrication I tried both of the above methods to smooth out the wrinkles (or ruffles? another term for disorder, it describes it better), and neither worked. Releasing tension by backing off on the bolts did nothing- the ruffles were already...

an unfortunate turn of events! Well, I only waited four days, and bought some #10-32 x 1" capscrews. black oxide flatwashers, and some #10-32 nylocks. I removed the Tek screws from the fender, one at a time, drilled the fender and lawn edging with a 3/16" bit (using the same holes that the TEKs...