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Started our with a Roll-a-Table, like KENPERK's. Pretty good table for canoe camping but I didn't care for it as a cook table. I was always worried about the vinyl cover on the top and it wasn't really sturdy enough for cooking around people who might be slightly intoxicated. Then went to a...

Have you contacted Partner Steel to see if anyone else is reporting this issue and how they resolved it? Have you seen the waxy residue upstream of the schrader valve, say inside the mpt fitting at the regulator? How full/empty is the lp cylinder? As far as finding the connector is concerned...

Being a of a fairly simple mindset I have to look at what is unique in the situation. You have a relatively popular stove and connector hose and no one else seems to be reporting this problem. The only uniqueness in the system is your propane supplier. If you can clean up the existing...

Yes you are. The voltage lost is dissipated as heat to the atmosphere, not easily detectable at these levels but there.

Just replace the hydraulic backing plates with electric ones, lock out the plunger action on the tongue and you've got electric brakes, no need to build a hybrid system.

Many years ago I swapped the sealed beams on my Jeep with a PIAA conversion kit, just a reflector bucket and lens, snap in the desired bulb. I picked PIAA because it was the only one with a glass lens.

That long overhang on the back of class c's has always turned me off. I don't go anywhere near extreme but just crossing a narrow wash is going to plough up the road, at best, and could leave you hung up or worse. Add to that the weight, width, height and high cg and you're asking for trouble.

I've had one of those for at least 15 years. Carried it as a backup/3rd burner car camping and as a primary stove canoe camping for years. Probably a Texsport, probably purchased at Academy. Carried it in a plastic dry box along with 2 cans of gas. Except in stout winds I had no complaints...

Thanks

RV 12 volt systems can have a lot of parasitic drain that might not be obvious. In my popup the LP leak detector can pull down the battery in a couple of weeks. In addition, if you have a house stereo with presets you'll have a constant draw from that. And some 2 and 3 way absorption...

I bought the flexible regulator hose for the Mountain Stoves from Camp Chef and am thinking about cutting the regulator off the original and using a compression fitting to adapt out to a 3/8 male flare. I was wondering if you recalled the id of the compression collar you used on yours.

After many years with a Weekender I switched to an Everest. My main issues with the Weekender were pack size, weight and sensitivity to wind. I gave it to family members and it is still going strong. The new Weekenders I've seen have 20k btu aluminium burners instead of the 30k ci burners...

The two big drawbacks of the absorption fridge are recovery time and leveling. After the door is opened, and all the cold air inside spills out onto the camper floor, these fridges typically cannot adjust in order to recover quickly. If you open the door more than 3 or 4 times a day you are...

One G31 East Penn deep cycle battery, 100 watt solar panel and Renogy controller runs my Resmed S9 and everything else in the pop up camper for up to 7 days at a time. The only reason I limit it to 7 days is because we haven't stayed in one place longer than that so far.

I've been running a Dometic CF25 for a few years now but am planning to upsize before our next big multiweek trip this fall. I was originally planning to get the CFX65DZ, but it's too tall to fit under the tonneau of my truck. The CFX75DZ is just too large a footprint. According to Dometic's...

If the batteries are going to share loads I would wire them parallel and use a single relay. If they are to be used for separate loads you will need to charge them separately. I have an aux battery in my truck, and when I plug in my camper you could say I'm charging 2 separate aux battery...

The fans I think you're talking about are said to be helpful in a loosely packed upright gas/electric absorption fridge as used in RVs and probably do help with the terrible recovery time on these fridges. I can't see any benefit in a densely packed chest style 12 volt fridge.

Won't know for sure until I cut the power cable but it looks like 14 gauge and should be able to handle a short burst of 15 amps if the absolute worst happens. If it's not 14 I'll downgrade the fuse at the battery.

That's what I was thinking. The dedicated circuit already has a fuse at the battery, currently 15 amps but it could be less if needed. The panel mount I got has 2 circuit capability and that had me thinking about other possible uses.

I'm swapping the cig plug on my Dometic CF 25 to Anderson power pole connectors. The plug on the CF 25 has an internal 8 amp fuse, according to the manual. Has anyone who's done this bothered to put an inline fuse holder on the downstream side of the connector?