What brand of truck? MUST be a GM or Dodge thing. I've had several sets of Ford OE DRW Alcoas, dozens of those trucks, never heard of this.
What you describe would mean either different offsets front vs rear outer or different offsets front vs spare or different offsets spare vs rear inner...
The big width started on long travel Independent frontends where it was a byproduct of the technical benefits then the aesthetic was copied for...well aesthetics. Then it was observed being wider (or obviously narrower, though that's more difficult) than the existing ruts and tracks in beach...
Yes, you need to seal that seam. It'll leak into the interior if you don't.
The gutters are a seam of 3 pieces of sheet metal spot welded together. The roof and wall panels have flanges that meet and the gutter is its own piece.
You don't have to use sikaflex though. A non-hardening autobody...
I found heating from below allowed me to remove my entire passenger side gutter-full of seam sealer intact in less than an hour. Doing it as you described took my 3 hours on the driver's side and rear.
I used self-etching primer both before and after the sealer then painted. I used Eastwood...
Templating the floor. It'll be a composite of 1/4" plywood, 1/2" foam, and 1/2" plywood. Thicker than I'd planned, but the L-track I'm recessing into is 5/8" deep.
Ordered 200w of solar (HQST) and a 40a charge controller (EP 4215BN) to go with the 110v charger (PD4135) so now I've just got to get them all installed and connected.
Oh and batterie$ :|
40a is way too much headroom for the solar charge controller and only 200w of panels but I've got plenty...
Go look under an Econoline. Only a crossmember is at odds with a solid front axle's differential. The twin i-beam front end needs frame clearance just like a solid axle.
X2 on getting any spark plug issues fixed correctly, not Dorman kits, etc.
I keep a good coil in the glovebox. They're not especially prone to failing but I have one and the tools needed to change it on board at all times.
Found a leaky gutter so I ordered Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and Seam Sealer to take care of that. Gonna try a heat gun and plastic scrapers to remove the old sealer.
I'll apply masking tape to the body along the gutter to protect the existing paint, then put gorilla tape over that to fend off...
Started sorting out a wall leak. Pulled the panelling, the insulation, and the window, cleaned the old silicone off the wall with plastic scrapers and a scotch-brite sponge, scuffed, primed, painted the scratches Sportsmobile left behind, and reinstalled the window in a thick bed of butyl with...
I hear a lot about using a mechanical shifter for reliability. I have a strong background in Fords, starting with Rangers in high school, and every one has had a 4x4 button and none have ever failed to shift. I think the notion of electric shifting as unreliable is Chevy's fault for using those...
No, I am not aware of the threads of even the fittings and sender I have used, much less those I have not. I found the sender by reading of the modification in a forum specific to the vehicle (Ford Ranger) rather than its purpose (basic transportation). I suggest you attempt the same (7.3 PSD...
I would bypass the resistor (just solder in a 18 awg wire) and use the sender. I've done it and it works. You can use a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge to develop a known "scale" for your stock guage. In my 4.0 Ranger with the above mods, N was 20, O was 25, R was 30, M 35, A 40, L 45...
I would want a single piece. If the joint ever let go you're up a creek. Vans have really long dipsticks. Might find one at the junkyard you could repurpose after shortening a bit. I've made a dipstick out of speedometer cable. They're just a long piece of metal, and again, if 2 made into 1 ever...
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