Search results

One easy quick thing you can do is to remove and clean your battery connections. Electrical gremlins are weird, often affected by weather changes and hard to duplicate. Loosen them, rub the contact surfaces with a medium grit sand paper, blow them off and reinstall. What year is your Mitsu...

As a contrast to plh’s experience with brake line replacement, I’ve done mine before as well, and I hated every minute of the job. ?

I did what Lev suggested and the repair has held up for over 5 years. Wish I could remember what I used….it was clear….possibly chimney flashing sealant.

Good ending. Was that section in its factory condition, or do you think something was tweaked vs where it was supposed to be?

Brake caliper dragging?

Nice disc sander

The mounts seem quite long to me.

I’d rig up something semi-permanent with your experiment and put in some time driving with it that way before getting too excited. Why not try and check the voltage output directly off the ECU to eliminate possibility of any harness issues?

First off, FWIW, that sensor doesn’t operate at 12v. Because the sensor power is computer controlled, it may detect that it isn’t plugged in (no circuit), and so sends no power. I think you could back probe the connector on top of the engine in order to try and see the supply voltage with it...

The loose timing belt you are describing wouldn’t cause your no start…..IMO

Do you know how to bypass / disconnect the alarm harness, so you can eliminate that as a cause? I’m not sure if the alarm system disables only the ignition system, or if it prevents the starter from cranking too.

You need the FSM……

I know for a fact a faulty cam position sensor can cause a no spark condition. I would probably try a third new CPS before I did anything else. Has the 340 code come up again? Also, how are you checking for spark? One old fashioned diagnostic trick is to spray starter fluid while cranking and...

Charlie you saying the CD changer would make lights flash? Not following that one…..

That’s not your hazard lights, it’s the alarm going off. Cutting the speaker wire kills the sound, my alarm horn was removed 15 years ago, but the lights still flash for the alarm. You are on the right path, process of elimination is the only way you will figure it out. The FSM has excellent...

As far as I know, the power for the CPS comes directly from the ECU and is not fused. It is very low voltage (like 6v maybe, and tiny amperage) I can’t see that blowing a bigger fuse.

Your fusible link blowing is bad juju esp. if it happened repeatedly……I’d focus on that first. Something that big popping could explain many other things.

Timing alignment looks as good as I’m used to seeing. I hate to say it, but I’d start by cleaning all the grounds you can. Clean your sensor connectors with electronics cleaner and compressed air. Electrical gremlins show up when circuits get dirty…….and they are intermittent, and often lead...

You can also buy a fuse that you can install a jumper wire on, to use with a DC clamp amp meter, then you move the fuse around until you find a circuit with juice flowing. That will get you closer faster.

I wonder if when the big manufacturers get the idea to cram a new motor into a different model, they start out by doing what you are doing. Maybe they can do it digitally and model the fit…..instead of physically doing it like you are.