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I had the radiator out for my timing belt / wp job and thought I’d lightly air hose my radiator. Nope. Bad idea. The fins were blowing out as fast as the dust, so I stopped.

The fins are turning to dust on mine……so it might not leak or clog, but cooling ability is diminished.

Do you have keyless entry on it? One challenge you will face is that I’m pretty sure the alarms were installed stateside, not by Mitsu in Japan, and I’ve heard that there were several different types used at the same time.

It’s been a while, but if your alarm horn has the wires cut (they probably are cut), when the alarm is going off, you may hear a relay click in time with the lights flashing. Have you ever messed around with this in the dark, you’ll see the lights flashing. I agree, don’t service the starter...

My radiator isn’t available on RockAuto, any suggestions where to go instead, so I don’t waste time talking to every parts store in town before I figure it out. Very surprised RockAuto is letting me down.

VIN lists I think are public info via state DMV’s / SOS……… Anybody speak Japanese?

I’d love to hear how someone actually figures this out, if they do.

Gotta have a winch. It totally transforms vehicle capability. I’ve never used my winch to un-stuck myself but I have used it to pull leaner trees down safely.

Yes. It is weird when you do it because you can hear the fuel circulating. I’ve used it during fuel pressure testing once, and also to test for leaks after service where I disconnected fuel lines.

Depends what you mean by “only for diagnostic purposes”. On my truck, a 98, I can use that plug to run the pump as long as I want, yes it will make the pump run. It bypasses the ignition / key circuits and supplies power directly to only the fuel pump. Now if you are thinking you have a power...

I’ve never done a smoke test, any idea how much pressure is involved? Psi? Your trim numbers aren’t horrible but I could see a rough idle from that, small vac leak(s) somewhere. One easy thing you can do is to snip 1/8” off all your vac hoses and reinstall. That will tighten them up, obviously...

So everything is ok now ? Check your fuel trims to look for air leak

Do you have a decent scanner that will show live data? 200 miles should have been enough IMO.

I’m not 100% sure, but I think what you are seeing with those green L and R lights is only an indication of the front diff clutch being engaged or not. They are not necessarily indicators of anything happening in the 4x4 transfer case (“transmission”). When you shift the 4x4 lever into the...

Yes it can be done without removing the gearbox. It is done from inside the vehicle. Also please provide more description, when you say “4x4 light stays on”. Do you mean the front L and R green indicator lights stay lit?

This reduces resistance and stress on the alternator.

13 hours (2 ppl too btw) could have been 10.5 but had a gasket leak on the thermostat housing so had to redo that, then one of those small hoses on the front of the manifold leaked and lost more time there. Timing belt was the easy part. Tear down took about 5 hours then 8 more with reassembly...

Water pump locked up. Couldn’t turn pulley with my hand. Put 10psi on the inlet and plugged outlet and reproduced the leak with timing belt off. So, water pump failed before timing belt interval. That shouldn’t happen.

I did notice there are two different timing belt sections in the FSM, very similar, haven’t figured out yet what the difference is. 11A-31 and 11B-16 Both are titled “Timing Belt Removal and Installation”, but they are not identically worded.

Can you please clarify what this little tool is for, and what is it called on Amazon? Also Any tips for crank pulley removal?