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Okay 3 hours of rain, some of it pretty heavy and NO leaks and the roof does not even have seals on it yet. Another pic of the side of the roof because I realized the other was hard to see whats going on. The brown is the fairing compound on the wall, the steel is next going up, that is bonded...

Haha let it rain. Apparently the extra humidity let the teroson cure over 18 hours, I tested a big glob of it, and it was cured all the way thru. or at least enough I could move the pop up roof panel. Well I moved it all right, right on to the roof. Let it rain all its wants to now, with the...

First Highwest ? No I am only really worried about the electronics that are in it and the unfinished wood inside. The inverter and power monitor are really the only electronic things that could get hurt, but the power wall, some cubbys and the surround of the pantry are not sealed yet, they are...

Oh my upon further review of the weather, see below. Now I just installed all the windows and door and taped them in place. Then added weight to the temp roof. I figured it was worth a few pics with the windows and stuff installed ( kind of ).

No pics just a minor update. Pop up frame all welded, and panel glued to it, and the sections of fiberglass are sealed to the steel frame that makes the opening for the roof. What that means is in 2 days when the teroson is cured enough I can trim the panel to frame and technically could put the...

When my camper is complete, which has square edges, I plan on a mileage test. I know my truck gets 18mpg. I have a 65 mile route planned out that will have me on back roads, with speeds from 25 to 60 mph for about 32 miles or so, then highway for the remainder with speed limit of 70 mph. I know...

Yes I did. Thats how I afforded my sailboat when I had it.

The wood place I got my baltic ply from sells 4x8 and 5x5 in thicknesses over 1/2 inch, under under half inch they only sell the 5x5. I bought both a 4x8 and a 5x5 of the half inch. they are the same in every way except size, same ply count etc etc. I can go take pics if you want.

Okay more pics. First I started the power wall, which is also the back wall of the pantry as well as some cubbys. Pics are pretty self explanatory. Next 2 pics are of how the steel frame that will go around the edge of the pop top meets up with the rear of the fixed panel in front of the pop...

Ittog the terosen will hold to steel to the point the fiberglass will fail before the bond. The really cool thing is how stretchy it really is, my trimmings from corners will stretch to twice the length and snap back like a rubber band. I would think in your situation it will pull the powder...

Getting there, I maybe ahead of you now. I saw when you trimmed the torosen on the top inside corner of the pantry and went back and cut out all the crappy smears of torosen that I did. I also found out that even a week later it can still be gooey in the middle. I did figure out tongue...

The continuing exciting, riveting .... snore Sorry bored my self to sleep there. Ok all corners are faired, sanded, sanded some more, did I mention sanding, I still have a little tiny bit of filling to do of a few low spots but they will easy. Then its time to seal all the filler, then you...

When I first put the bal jacks on mine i did them square to the trailer. It was not stable, I changed them to about 45 degrees ( or 90 to each other ) and it got rock solid

Its a good thing I dont tend to go over board, Nope. Lets see a separate wire to every exterior light, a separate wire to each power point, pretty much everything is a dedicated wire. So that meant I needed distribution blocks. The one on the right is the exterior lights, the one on the left is...

So I bought 1 of the amped outdoor 60 ah lifepo4 batteries and a 700 watt pure sign inverter, basically I sized the inverter to what the battery was good for. The battery is good for 50 amps continuous discharge, surge to 80. Well renogy decided to send a 1000 watt inverter instead. I tested it...

amazon they are the BAL ones https://www.amazon.com/BAL-23025-Tent-Trailer-Stabilizer/dp/B000GGMSQM/ref=sr_1_33?crid=283KH79FBNLYR&dchild=1&keywords=camper+stabilizer+jacks&sprefix=camper+sta%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-33

I bought my 30x32 exit windows from ebay for 85 each shipped, all my access doors for the pantry and various storage area from ebay and did not pay over 70 shipped for anything. MY door came from challenger door, it cost 300 plus 100 something for shipping.

I have the same stabilizers on my trailer. They are meant to be stabilizers not jacks, they are strong but using them to lift is hard cranking. I run mine down with a battery drill, they do unload the suspension but dont really lift the trailer. Now I have run the tongue jack down low, then run...

Plus I can see having to let it cool and drain the oil to be able to transport it with out making a mess.

Okay all external corners are tapered, rounded and glassed with 2 inch 6oz fiberglass tape and epoxy. It actually went really fast, took just over 1 hour to do them. Process was roll on a thin coat of epoxy, wide enough to give the fairing compound ( epoxy and micro ballons ) a nice epoxy...