I always have a sidearm with me, either a S&W 629 or a Charter Arms Bulldog in 44 Special.
In the truck I generally carry my 30/30 or my AKM; I keep a Mossberg 12g pump in the camper.
If I'm in the sticks I usually have a Nylon 66 with me for plinking.
Ditto, except that you need a continuous duty solenoid, not a regular Ford solenoid. They don't last long in continious use. You can buy the right one at an RV parts store; I think I paid fifteen bucks for my last one.
Great suggestion otherwise.
Connect the camper battery to ground and to a...
Ditto. Before I'd condemn the engine, I'd check the flywheel/flexplate bolts, and make sure it's not spark knock that's causing the noise. Did you measure the clearance between the rod journal and rod bearing? Doing so might reveal a different, cheaper problem.
If you're sure it's a rod, you...
What he said. Before you spend a dime to reseal the case, make sure it's not leaking from one of the output shaft seals. If it is, you won't even need to remove it from the van to fix it, and you can do it way cheaper than $350.
My Ford truck and Sundowner
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wyowanderer/5606581033/
I've added a furnace and water tank. The crummy cell phone pic was taken at Alcova Lake in Wyoming.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wyowanderer/4994198287/
This one is a bit better, taken with a better camera on...
I used a spray lube called Moly Mist, made by Jet Lube on mine: it made all the difference in the world. It's a spray on product that dries to a grey color. It rubs off in the areas that touch each other, but doesn't tend to rub off on your hands.
I cleaned up the jack parts while installing a...
I've recycled driving lights for years. My current backup light is an old chromed Warn driving light bolted to the upright next to the taillight housing. I use a 30A Bosch driving light relay and a underdash switch wired through my aux fuse panel and #2 battery to power it.
I'll probably...
These are great for warming the bed while driving down the road. I had one in my old Red Dale, and I plugged it in about an hour before I arrived at camp (night driving). Pull into camp, crawl into a warm bed; wonderful.
I never used one during the night, though.
A double bed would be easy to add by adding a platform to the front and turning the mattress crosswise. I had a Michell "ice fishing hut" and did this to accommodate my wife. It worked great.
That wouldn't help the length problem, though.
I used regular barb fittings and rubber air line from a local Gates dealer. I've changes the hoses and clamps once, from clamps that you tighten with a screwdriver, to clamps that are crimped on.
The trouble with the stock fitting was that they were push-on air brake fittings, they were cheap...
I'd be wary of using air bags to improve the load carrying ability of your rig. Remember, the axle rating and the brakes stay the same, so you don't actually improve anything, except to level the vehicle, but that's probably all you really need (unless you lack sway bars).
I've carried several...
In a word, leaks.
A small leak in a pump driven system is an annoyance; in a pressurized system, it's a disaster.
BUT, I agree; if one could build one well (and it didn't leak), it'd be a greatly simplified water system.
I have a set on my '84 Ford F-150. I use them for leveling, and they work great for that. I can't imagine they'd be much use as a lift, and I wouldn't use them to raise the working load of the rear axle, since the brakes. axles, and wheel bearings need to match the load as well.
They're a hell...
If you have a pipe thread port at the top, you could install a tee at the bottom, running clear tubing between top and bottom using barb fittings. The clear tubing would show the water level.
Can't help you on the low battery alarm.
If you want flannel for warmth, consider Filson's wool Jac-Shirt. It's as warm as they come.
Ditto on the Carhartt. I have a green plaid one that works great.
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