LATEST PROJECT - Truck Drawers/Sleeping Platform
- Thread starter roadtripcrazed
- Start date
Dave Bennett
Adventurist
Amazing work!!!
Every Miles A Memory
Expedition Leader
I'm always amazed with the fab skills on this forum!
What an awesome build!! Thanks for sharing it
What an awesome build!! Thanks for sharing it
DesertBoater
Adventurer
Another Question
I'm in the process of re-designing my platform in the back of my truck and have definitely been inspired by your system. One of the more recent concerns that I've had for my own setup is trying to keep the weight down, and I was wondering if you feel that using (what looks like) 3/4" birch is necessary for all of the pieces. For example, could one get away with 1/2" for the floor and a few of the vertical pieces (like what's around your water tank)? Obviously, the sleeping platform itself needs to be solid, as do the drawer sides/bearing walls, but I think that it could be possible to get away with using some lighter wood for the non-load bearing surfaces.
Cheers,
West
I'm in the process of re-designing my platform in the back of my truck and have definitely been inspired by your system. One of the more recent concerns that I've had for my own setup is trying to keep the weight down, and I was wondering if you feel that using (what looks like) 3/4" birch is necessary for all of the pieces. For example, could one get away with 1/2" for the floor and a few of the vertical pieces (like what's around your water tank)? Obviously, the sleeping platform itself needs to be solid, as do the drawer sides/bearing walls, but I think that it could be possible to get away with using some lighter wood for the non-load bearing surfaces.
Cheers,
West
roadtripcrazed
Observer
Thank you for checking out the build!
I debated long and hard over what to build this out of and eventually decided that I would use 3/4" Birch ply for all of the structure and build the drawer-boxes out of 1/2". I felt I could get away with 1/2" on the drawers because of the steel tubing that was going to be bolted to the sides - no regrets with that decision as the drawers are PLENTY strong. The verticals which house the roller-bearings had to be 3/4" to deal with the stress of supporting two fully loaded drawers at full extension. I was afraid the bolts would tear out of 1/2" with enough weight in the drawers. Not to mention that 1/2" can be a bugger to build with ... 3/4" is just so much easier to joint properly (not much material left when you put a 1/4" dado into 1/2" stock) and ensure solid construction and the platform needed to be 3/4" to prevent any sagging with heavy loads on top. In the end, the whole assembly is far from light. I won't lie. But I still don't know if I could have reduced it much and maintained the strength that I ended up with. The walls around the water tank could have been built with 1/2" but I wanted to be sure that the tank would be absolutely secure back there.
In the end, there may be ways to reduce some weight, but not a lot. Good luck with your build!
StromHawk60
Observer
Spectacular!
I'm sure many of us would agree - this is the finest drawer build I've seen yet. Thank you very much for sharing.
I'm sure many of us would agree - this is the finest drawer build I've seen yet. Thank you very much for sharing.
thecriscokid
Explorer
The bearing system is great. Precision work with basic parts. I may be going that route for my fridge slide.
How much do you think the system weighs?
How much do you think the system weighs?
roadtripcrazed
Observer
I've thought about this before, but never weighed anything during the construction phase. If I had to make an educated guess I would say that it weighs around 300lbs with an empty water tank. A full tank adds a considerable amount of weight!
On this note, I'd appreciate any information on improving the rear suspension in my 2010 Nissan Frontier. I have considered installing air bags, but not sure if that is the right route to take. I don't want or need to add a lift as we rarely find ourselves that far off the beaten path, but improving the load carrying ability would be great. As I am sure you all understand, a full water tank and all our gear can get heavy pretty quickly!
-=D
Wyowanderer
Explorer
I'd be wary of using air bags to improve the load carrying ability of your rig. Remember, the axle rating and the brakes stay the same, so you don't actually improve anything, except to level the vehicle, but that's probably all you really need (unless you lack sway bars).
I've carried several campers in my Ford half ton over the past fifteen years, and air bags were the single best mod I've made to my rig.
Installation is easy; It'll take a couple hours in your driveway, counting coffee breaks.The cheap air brake style fittings and hoses that come with the kit are the weak link of the system, but they're easy to swap out with high(er) quality components.
Just remember that you don't actually gain axle load rating with the bags.
roadtripcrazed
Observer
Yup - clearly understand that I would not gain any load capacity with air bags. I just want to level the truck out a bit and to take a bit of strain off the factory rear springs. We spent 3 weeks in Alaska this summer with this drawer set-up AND a very full load and it was clear at times that I would need to upgrade the suspension in some way. The cash wasn't there at the time, but it's on the list for the near future.
What products would you recommend for replacing the fittings included in the kit? For the record, I was planning to purchase the Firestone Rite-Rite #2403.
-=D
Wyowanderer
Explorer
I used regular barb fittings and rubber air line from a local Gates dealer. I've changes the hoses and clamps once, from clamps that you tighten with a screwdriver, to clamps that are crimped on.
The trouble with the stock fitting was that they were push-on air brake fittings, they were cheap, and they leaked; I got weary of airing up the system every day or so. When I called Firestone, their solution was to sell me the on board compressor, but it was more money than the air bags were.
I've since learned the difference in quality between air brake fittings and if I was going to do it over I'd be willing to use better ones, but the barb fittings and hoses work fine for me, and they're cheap to replace; parts are available at small town hardware stores.
Awesome build! Your design is inspiring me on something I want to design for my van.
Two questions:
1. I may have missed it in the 8 pages but do the drawers have a "safety stop" built in or can they come out of the track if pulled far enough? I'm thinking if you were parked on an incline and you released your lock, if the drawer would come flying out?
2. It looks like the bearing assembly is simply 1 bolt, 2 washers, a bearing and a nut?
Again, awesome build!
Two questions:
1. I may have missed it in the 8 pages but do the drawers have a "safety stop" built in or can they come out of the track if pulled far enough? I'm thinking if you were parked on an incline and you released your lock, if the drawer would come flying out?
2. It looks like the bearing assembly is simply 1 bolt, 2 washers, a bearing and a nut?
Again, awesome build!
DesertBoater
Adventurer
And another question as I'm about to start on my re-build using a similar system. My original thought was to follow roadtripcrazed's system to a T, however I'm concerned about weight and have a question about the square tubing. For those who work with metal more than me (I'm more of a woodworker) would aluminum tubing work in place of the steel? I'm building my drawer to be 10" wide by 48" deep by 10" tall. This is going to be my kitchen box, and as such won't be holding tons of weight. My stove/propane will be elsewhere and water will be plumbed up forward. Seems like only food and a light cook-kit will be in there. Any thoughts?
Cheers,
West
Cheers,
West