They look like cuts from rocks. Use something very thin and prob them for depth as they may only be shallow. You can normally feel if they are down to the cord by moving your prob around a bit. My belief if not down to cords they are still right. I would run them on the rears if you are...
For me the choice would be simple. No computer at all, so around 2000 Fg637 Model 4.2Litre engine. A lot cheaper than later models or new and then rebuild to the standard that you want. This will work out a lot less expensive than a new one. Yes you are going to need to fit a turbo to increase...
Put it this way when are really stuck to the chassis don't ask me to help work that winch as it really a lot of work for not much pull. If it just slick on top of the ground it will get you moved (maybe). A big Tirfor will get a lot more pull.
Dan.
Just a pic from our last trip to the Top (Cape York). Well it was actually on the way back down and that is a story that I need to do.
Well, with the drought hitting us hard the Camp boxes are off and the Canter has to earn a living by picking up Cattle feed. This is one of many loads that I...
I built mine if you wanted to chase up on one of the threads as well. For mounting plate I would go at least 12mm and thicker would be better as you will get less warp-age. If I build another I would pre-load the mounting face surface (to the head) so there would be less dressing to do on the...
True Alan's rim only have a single valve stem but I don't have any problems with it that way as I can reach round to them no matter what position they are in and I do have tyre monitoring on them as well.
Tyre balancing beads solve this.
Probably not a lot of difference between 16' and 17"...
That about covers it but I would personally go with the 16" alloys from Alan as they are a lot lighter and 16" tyres as there are a lot more available in different tyre patterns.
Dan
I'd opt for the older one as then you don't have any computer problems so a lot less hassles. Probably won't be throwing a lot of money at the older one anyway a they are well looked after and in the long run will end up cheaper than the new one.
Less tech souts me,
Dan.
That's not bad boost and egt is good. Egt will rise if you are in a higher gear and driving up a slight rise and give it a little throttle, that's when I see a rise. A world of DIFFERENCE is what I say.
Dan.
Mine (4D33) is on the back of the pump up towards the top. It has a safety cap over it that needs to be pried off, then 10mm spanner on lock nut and allen key to screw the centre screw in. I went 1.5 turns.
This is on mine,
Dan.
Same with my DAF Prime Mover. Let it stand for a fortnight and it would not start on it's own batteries, so fit a battery isolator switch and the problem was solved for about six months. But now the ECU can't remember a lot of other parameters such as suspension ride height.
"Computer...
You are not going to believe this but I just chased up the original builder of this vehicle while I was up North. This was on Saturday 01/09 not knowing it was for sale or I would have gone to have a look. I was originally hopeing he still had it but he had sold it some 5 years ago and he said...
Just found this listed.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MITSUBISHI-CANTER-4X4-1991-MODEL-FULLY-REBUILT-AS-NEW-PLUS-MORE/142883524871?hash=item2144859107%3Ag%3AsLIAAOSwvNlbWbF8&_sacat=0&_nkw=canter+4x4&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2505460.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xcanter+4x4.TRS0
Dan.
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