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Espar has an electronic altitude kit that uses an air pressure sensor to adjust fuel dynamically with their heaters.. wonder if they can be used with other heaters.

how much power does your LP valve take? or is it normally open? Ive thought about adding an electronic shut off just cuz Ive got to have a piece of flexible rubber hose for the slideout kitchen.. and I dont like leaving that pressurized when not needed.. I just dont want a half amp load running...

yeah I'm planning on putting redundant alarms in the slide out cabinet area where the furnace, electrical, and LP lines are all spiderwebbed.. if I get a fire it'll start in there.. I'll be mounting a piece of ply on the surface where the Smart Solar and BP are in my previous pics.. run it all...

I would do two series of 2, for 60v with two in parallel for ~17A.. you only need a 100/30, I got an open box for like $180 off amazon. separate SC's is more advantageous when your panels are not in same location, like one fixed and one portable would be better suited by separate controllers...

They've implemented a work around on stable releases, the fixed absorb time.. but the syncing I think its still in beta channel AFIK.

SmartSolars need to coordinate if you use their dynamic absorb for lead batteries.. the way it works is, in the morning when a charge current starts coming in.. it takes the battery voltage and uses that as a multiplier for absorb time.. a lower voltage will have a longer absorb, higher voltage...

if you can fit all 4 of em on the roof, and are fine with that much weight up high, then go for it.. look at a Victron SmartSolar controller.. you'll size the Solar Charger up to your desired battery bank size.. which is about 0.15-0.2C, and C = battery in AH.. probably have two parallel series...

The kitchen flipped would not work out as well as you are imagining.. Supplies are easy to access either way, if you seriously cant walk a few feet you probably dont need a camper.. IF the door is closed, someone's gonna open it and its gonna hit you pretty hard.. Awning? meh.. If awning is...

ah thats a 9v device with that voltage input and a hard limit of 12v, even a full battery is too much. something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/SMAKNÂ-DC-DC-Converter-Supply-Waterproof/dp/B014ZRW60U/

load output will be same voltage as battery/charge voltage, tho I doubt <14.3v would fry that board.. basically all voltage regulators in that range can take battery charge voltages or else the'd be entirely worthless for most all applications.. if its 12vDC you can run it off a 12v battery...

A wedge is the quickest to deploy and put back down.. for something like a van this can be nice because it means you can go from sitting to standing room with just one quick smooth action, and then back just as quick.. I found me opening the top to my westy all the time.. park on side of the...

people forget that bi-directional wireless range is limited to the weakest transceiver in the pair.. if you have a 1W radio on one side, and a 0.25W radio on the other side.. effective range is 0.25W because it dont matter when you can hear it if it cant hear you. I wonder how many range...

If you have a BMV networked w/SmartSolar it has remote voltage sense capabilities.. and either way your Solar controller should always be as close to the battery as you can reasonably get, so voltage drop should be negligible unless you grossly underwired it. I dunno what your talking about...

boondocking loads and solar are so variable its nice to have a reasonably full tank when the sun stops cooperating.. sometimes that might be a bit earlier in the day than you'd want just due to the site's location.. but yeah if I were running fixed loads full time, even more room to make things...

Half an amp tail current for that little LFP.. lowering the float voltage lets battery discharge a bit before it holds voltage w/solar, but you need a load on the battery to pull it back down after.. otherwise it'll just sit at 100%. If you are storing it w/out loads, discharge it to ~50% SOC...

I can open up any of my victron stuff via bluetooth from my bedroom window.. it is really nice for keeping an eye on stuff in the winter when trailer is buried in feet of snow.. When its in the driveway I can connect from my office, YMMV but I've got no complaints about range.. pretty typical...

I have a lithium preset

yeah Victrons LFP setting is 14.2v, 2h fixed absorb, float of 13.6v.. I just tweaked the absorb and float to be a bit more conservative and not hold the battery so high for so long.. 13.4v float is less of a float charge and more of a storage charge, its ~90% SOC before it'll start taking load...

I used the Lithium setting as a base, set fixed absorb voltage til 2A (0.02C, 1.2A for you), and knocked the float down to 13.4v.. for my 100AH BattleBorn.

for that level of money, you can get plenty of US made options that are not Junk.. I paid $22k for my 20ft intech, full aluminum frame, tandem dexter torsion axles and I can drag it anywhere a HQ-19 can get.. for $30k less money and the build quality is top notch.. Yeah there are tons of Junk...