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Actively working on that haha.

I added a few "upgrades" to the trailer today. BFG KO2's and a proper drop foot 8K jack, now the tilt mount jack can be used solely at the rear of the trailer for flat repairs. I'll add a few more touches before it's done, a winch at the front being the most important.

Yes, Quail houses lol. They are decent, I'd rate them a 7/10 on the deer blind scale.

Nah, I just do that on the ground lol. We lost three of our six blinds this past off-season due to wind and lightning so we had to replace to them. It wasn't a well received use of "fun funds" amongst the group but we really didn't have much choice.

Doing very, very mild "truck stuff" lol.

Always tinkering, I know the sickness. Love the progress.

I decided to accept the sub-par old school windows and scheduled it to get tinted with Ceramic 3M next week. Beyond improving things thermally and for privacy's sake it'll improve the aesthetics of the trailer as well.

Received and installed and it took all of five minutes. It seems every bit as quality as the OEM console safe and I like that it has a barrel key backup. 4-digits would have been better from a security standpoint but I can live with rolling a faster 3-digit code. The factory tray still fits in...

Yea that’s what I am hoping for, we shall see next year.

Casita leaked a new 15’ Camper due to be out in Q1 ‘25. It appears to have a more modern tilt out vinyl window that is factory tinted. I wish the 17’ model had those windows, they are the biggest disappointment on this trailer. Looks like I’ll be taking it in for a $550 window tint job in the...

I think @Kingsize24 is doing this exact thing at the moment, maybe he can chime in with some advice and share his choices on his similar build?!

They aren't, it's a monocoque design that that sits within the space and supports itself. The clothes rod is installed at the factory and a separate part of the system.

LOL. We will definitely have to disagree. I suggest you do your own research and educate yourself on the differences in design, material, and engineering of said designs. And if you're rolling your trailer you have a lot bigger problems than worrying about whether or not it survives said...

Another idea I lifted from a fellow Casita owner. During the hotter months, when one uses the AC it tends to drip the condensation down onto the entry side of the camper. This water runs off near the entry door and over the window on the entry door side of the camper. This 1/2" rubber gutter...

I finally got around to installing the awning crank near the entry door and directly next to the awning spreader/support bar. I had planned to use rivets direct to the fiber glass but instead I opted to drill through the FG and into the wood supports for the cabinet shelving. Now both items will...

Agreed and most tow vehicles will become uncomfortable or even unsafe while towing at speeds slower than the damage threshold of the trailer and it's components.

A fiberglass tub far and away out survives any frame and panel setup over rough terrain. Oliver and many of the other high end trailer companies build off of custom aluminum frames, while aluminum has a lower tensile strength than steel it is lighter, not nearly as corrosive and takes far less...

While I can't take credit for this solution I must say that it is pure genius in terms of space management and accessibility. Another Casita owner came up with the idea of using the trim panel hardware found on the space between the door and the cabinet to mount the awning spreader bar. He also...

My wife grew tired of remotes lying around and never within reach when she actually wanted/needed them so I gave in to my clean/minimalist nature and agreed to mount them to the wall partition near the bed.

In order to fully drain the Suburban water heater in my trailer you have to pull the anode rod which is a PITA. This is much better.