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you dont need two batteries for starting, an isolator would mean at least one of em could not be drained if engine is not running.. there is no law saying isolators are for house applications.

A Duracell 215AH 6v GC2 battery is 68lbs, with FLA.. more weight the more lead, and the more lead the more robust capacity you have at your disposal, I can use that 52lbs vs 68lbs to argue how much more a GC2 is a deep cycle than whatever your 12v "deep cycle" claims. so 136lbs for 215AH, plus...

some simple calculus here, lets throw Solar out the window because its got such an advantage on LFP its not even funny.. lets pretend we're using an Engine as our primary charge source, either Generator use or Driving. ~70AH day diet, I run Engine ~2h day to recharge, burning gas.. 100AH of LFP...

id advise against hardwired USB, with ever changing charging standards and ports whats okay today will be obsolete tomorrow, and while I'm not fond of the 12v ciggy plug ports.. they are fine if they always have a USB adapter in em, and you can quick and easy upgrade or replace the USB charger...

yes I have a 325W fixed roof panel and a 325W "portable" panel that I've yet to mount vertically to the side of the trailer for when the fixed panel isint cutting it.. both combined can fully recharge me in ~2h, which is pretty easy to get in all but the most dense forest.. and then in...

right now I'm doing ~65-70ah dusk til dawn, and able to recharge it daily with minimal fuel/sunlight.. thats not including any of my day time loads I run off the big solar.. I'm able to get by with 100AH just fine with LFP, but Ive had ~250AH of AGM then GC batteries in my Westfallia, with a...

yeah its hard to beat flooded batteries for cost vs performance.. but, at this point w/lead batteries if I had a failure.. all I would get is pro-rated for another one (more likely multiples since it would be a 4x battery bank) and would still be out of pocket unlike getting this fixed for no...

so quick update, I was delayed in sending the battery back.. I made mistake of saying it was a battery and the local FedEx store nopped right out of accepting it and required I drive it all the way across the Denver Metro to the FedEx warehouse.. unfortunately it was rush hour at the time and...

add a 12v outlet to the camper, a tablet wont make you end up running the generator.. regular 12v accy port and use a good car USB charger.. If you get solar, add it to the trailer.. they also make pretty big portable battery banks that can recharge tablets several times.

I use the stuff @luthj linked now, ZIP is fine for indoor projects.. but I've got a 30ft strand of 12awg ZIP that was left outside, I cut it in half and stripped it, had corroded from one end to the other and was full of cancer.. probably fine for a portable panel used a few times a year, but...

sorry guys I was out adventuring last weekend and getting ready for a big trip coming up soon, guess I'll rework my diagram.. that diagram is not 100% as I sit today, its what I've been working towards slowly.. all this crap is expensive heh, am about 90% there.. today I have just one BP for...

These are not huge loads were talking about, nothing the powerpole cant handle.. if you wanted to cut power suddenly pulling it off the high voltage side would be the safest way to do it.. wont cause a potential voltage spike.. some people put switches, those connect w/load safely.. dun see how...

I just crimped on some power poles to a little pigtail plugged right into SmartSolar.. if I need to disconnect them for work I can just unplug em, no sparks or risk of shorting.. and simple.. I put a locking pin in em so I dont even consider it a point of failure..

for inspiration here's my diagram

I dont have alternator power with my setup. I'm shooting to get shore charging at 0.4C, already have the genset for AirCon and backup power, cant rely on solar exclusively if your going looking on indefinite boon-docking.. sooner or later the environment will beat you, in the middle of winter...

wire up a small DC cooling fan to that load output if you run into heating issues.. which with that little battery you cant really test yet to see if they are okay..

1. Solar Feed lines are always hot, they are trying to idiotproof it more than likely.. take Zamp for example, you pay 2-3x the cost so you dont have to splice/crimp on connectors to use the port your trailer came with. 2. They dont care, especially for portable panels as they are not designing...

the best way to practice is with someone else's battery :P

yeah both panels full in sun is totally overkill for me, ******** it can run more than half the microwave off the frigging sun haha.. when I mount the second one to the side of the trailer and make it portable it'll be even easier.. only when the fixed is in a tough spot or if I want comfortable...

Can you mount it to the lid part? ie, flip it and reverse it.. <record scratch> and make the recess the lid and the flat part the mounting. Like your powerpole job, thats how I did my solar.. vinyl sleeves + marine shrink..