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The majority of that weight will be on the rear axle. Personally, Id never run any vehicle without a floating rear axle at or over max GVWR.

Ah, gotcha. Thanks for the clarification.

No. Above was mentioned he was switching to 365’s from 355’s due to overheating them. And no surprise, with the massive amount if weight on that thing behind the rear axle. 355/80R20 Goodyears Specs… https://www.otrusa.com/shop/truck-tires/335-80r20-12pr-f-145m-goodyear-g275-msa-tl/

With all the weight he has south of the rear axle, that 7k rated S60 front axle is likely just fine :LOL: The issues are related to the trendy supersingle rear, with 12,000lbs (reported) on it, and tires not being up to the task. The 355/80R20 Goodyears are rated for less than 6500 per tire...

12k on rear axle....

Did some digging and found your old thread. From the photos posted, I doubt the camper or method of mounting was directly responsible. It likely age, mileage, and long term weight and weight transfer (side to side) were all contributing factors. Though I must point out as a heads up... with...

A half ton Ford at that age and mileage, its likely a combination of reasons why it failed. Any photos of the current truck and camper?

Out this morning to beat the heat with MrCole. :cool:

Ill always recommend a rear pivot for a few reasons. Biggest one is the allowable space between cab and camper can be much less with a rear pivot. This helps bring the overall COG as well as height down. Second one is with regard to weight shifts as the truck rocks left-right. A well...

Id love to see an example or two of such a case, but I doubt you will find reference to it at all. 👍

A new 6.2 Superduty? Agreed. No upgrades needed. We haul a 3000lb (wet) camper with a 2011 superduty and stock brakes are still more than adequate. 👍 You may, however need to do upgrades to carry the weight a bit better than stock. Bags, add-a-leaf, custom leaf pack, etc.

Knowing what vehicle you have would help. 👍

As mentioned, most are junk in snow and ice. Big lugs, no siping, and hard (long wearing) compound.

This is the largest error in the claims within this thread, and so many others. GVWR in the US, so long as you do not operate commercially, is NOT the legal limit. GVWR is not law. Never has been. Some areas/states in the country have adopted additional laws/regs in efforts if curbing...

I dont believe anyone referred to it as a scam. More like red-tape. And if you do not believe the over/under differences of that magical 10k GVWR, thats on you. Don't blame us for your ignorance.

Like it or not, unless you have a vehicle that falls under commercial reg’s or are obnoxiously over your GVWR, being over has little to nothing to do with legality in the USA. Feel free to prove me wrong, and be sure to site instances that resulted in charges and/or lawsuits. 😉 Ive said...

Agreed about tire pressures, but be certain to consult a tire inflation chart before dropping PSI. Running the high load Toyo AT2's we do, we roll loaded with the camper at 60PSI front, 75PSI rear. Empty, I drop it to 45PSI front, 40PSI rear Those numbers (loaded) are for warmer months...

;)

Poser pic after a suspension and brakes overhaul/upgrades More than ever, ready and willing to haul the camper :cool:

And loaded heights, with no air in the bags...