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The JK was cramped for sure in every way. I found my YJ roomy enough. But it had no center console, no dash board, no back seat at all. The 1199 is never more than a 1 hour ride. It's not really that bad. Previous Ducati's were way worse. My wrists and hands are what suffer on that bike...

15 years in a GM dealers garage is an entire lifetime. I lasted a year, before going on to heavy equipment, then on to a field tech. Just over twenty years of this, and I'm pretty beat. If you're a good mechanic, you start your own shop, or slide into a cake gig somehow. Happy olde...

I could have sworn there's a bigger axle under the 550. The price jump online between 450/550 seems substantial.

I like the simplicity of the YJ's but their axles are made out of wood. TJ's and JK's don't have enough legroom. TJ grill and hood fits the YJ, last time I checked. And all of those parts will be due for replacement by now anyways...... So no, was a legit, ''are the new ones better?''...

So which is better? Old Wrangler vs new one.

Generally, the less often I crank my engine over with ZERO oil pressure the better. I'd turn it off. Don't play games with your oil filter. More pleats, volume, whatever. Just stick to the Motorcraft filter.

It was rubbish. A complete nightmare for it's owners. Normally I'd recommend talking to a good gm tech, but gm techs of that era should have moved on by now. Mitsu had something similar IIRC. [Another manufacturer with a stellar warranty.] The fact that it's being tried again, is simple...

F450's don't have the stoutest rear springs or the cargo rating of the 550.. More like an F350 DRW CC with 19.5" wheels and a bigger rear axle. ER's are Greyhound bus heavy.

Leave the wife at home, next time. Tundra still not available with rear locker? Did you also drive a 5.0, 150? I went 6.2l 250. Not sure what campers, trailers, or RTT'S are in my future. 250 has all of those bases covered.

Cut down a tree. Or turtle shells. Turtle shells are great cribbage. Or 4 highlift jacks. Or just fab some extensions.

Yep. I prefer Pirelli XCMH's.

If I drop $3000+ to regear, I'm going all the way into the blue zone on that chart. 3.73 to 4.30 isn't worth the cash.

3.73 are standard with autos, 4.10 with manuals, last time I checked. Auto Rubi? Yuck. I don't see the $800 4.10 option, under the options list. The auto trans option, might have overridden the 4.10 listed under standard equipment, and bumped you back to 3.73. Can't the trailer tow pack...

[canadian health care?] lolz!

You'll need a dyno to double check your AFR's. "Factory Tune'' people are always trouble. I'd also go gears first. 4.88-5.13. And lose some weight if your jeep is as porky as some of the others 'round here.

We're still having starters fall off of brand new 5.0, 5.7, 3.0, and 8.8 GM's over here. Same old same old. One bolt gets loose, then the other snaps. Drilling out the broken bolt is a nightmare with no room under the engine to work. Torque spec is ''finger tight''. So use thread...

Lockers are a subjective thing. Just add them to this kit if you want them. It's not like 7.5% is much anyways. I was expecting 33% savings by such a large group.

Mistaking having a soul, for eating a soul. If I had to put 600,000 miles on a Corolla, I'm jumping off a bridge.

17 sized tires are dying off. Depending on brand, 18's offer more E rated options. Also cast Al 17's will rub the calipers if you use stick on weights in the center of some trucks. You have to place them towards the rim. Some people have had rocks get stuck in there as well. The...

I hear ya. It ain't easy to teach snow driving. And IME, it's best to go back to 2wd operation ASAP. As soon as your moving. But open diff 4wd is good for one car length improved stopping in the snow and ice. (no idea if lockers mess that up, haven't tested LSD's and such like that, yet)