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The only Ox downsides are that: -you don't want to hit the air actuator or cable actuator, on a rock. But they are cheap to replace. -won't ratchet when locked like an auto Although I don't recall rock any dings half way up my diff cover. That would be a truck stopping crash, not a drab or...

It's worth mentioning that the Ford Elockers close with 12v, then drop down to lower voltage to save the coil. IIRC, Jeep has started doing something similar. There is a company that makes a bypass that does the same thing. But I don't find the nanny controls a problem. Locker...

Sounds about right. My f250 is 6900#. No winch or big tires, and Al body. Every diesel on the lot was at least 1000# heavier. You have to rotate DT's every 5000 miles. 10 if you avoid parking lot manuevers (pull straight into a back spot), and/or travel hwy often. And these...

I get 45 000 miles on Duratracs on an 11 000# truck.

.. New Jersey is filled with LR Defenders already.

Rear locker on the Ford is the swing vote for me. Seems like it has bigger wheel wells as well. I want to say that mild coil over kits are cake on the Ford, but they're cake minor lifts on the Tundra as well. The Raptor kids have springs and aftermarket shock tuning down. Easy to copy...

Do you remember what color pads? My EBC's were dusty.

Yeah, I'd have both axles locked to go up that ice as slow as possible. Studs or cables would have been nice. And I'd only be in 1wd when I'd hit that and notice a problem, anyways. Because there is no deep anything in that vid, that would require 4wd. Hitting ice like that at speed, I...

Cooper STT Pro's would be my choice still.

I'd be happy with 250hp/300tq. If you want some Hennessay stuff, I've got their entire setup dissolved into nanites. You can just pour them into the tank. Send me $2200, and I'll download them to the gas station fuel pump of your choice, ready for ya'll to pump in.

California can cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive harm. Guy looks like a meth head to me.

Front on flat-ish trails. Rear on trails with lots of climbing. Rear on trucks first, front on Jeeps. Depending on axle quality. One without the other is blasphemy now. They work best together.

The studs shouldn't break anything anymore. They don't even reduce wet grip anymore, since most tires only have a few studs. Not the hundreds they used to. It's just value added, if you have dedicated snow tires. Which I'm considering again. But Cooper Stt's work fine for me...

Oh, that's just the side of the road. Shiny is good for studded tires around here.

See, I'd call the above pic ''high grip''. Matte finish, packed snow means ''hammer down'' to me. Very easy to drive on. 1wd is fine for that, so an aggressive front diff is fine. When that melts a bit and starts to shine, is tricky.

I think used campers are usually overpriced. I expect a huge bargain, for buying someones rot box, not KBB. The older Capri's are horribly obsolete as well. They've made big strides forward in the past few years.

Average of 3'', to max 20" per year isn't exactly the ''snow belt''. I get 24" in one weekend, 4 wheel drifting every wide turn. I suppose people with a lack of snow experience should stick with open diffs on the street. Nobody is arguing against snow, or studded tires. Except you do have...

People said that about the 6.2 as well. And it dyno's in at 400hp with just a minor tune. Some people just can't drive. ''What's the minus button on the shifter for?.....''

Actually the UPS truck was nearby, and the locker was still in the box being delivered, and it caused all of that.

That vid.....sometimes you just need studded tires. Studs, cables, or chains, would have climbed right up that no problemo. Studs are legal in Ohio, November to April. Cooper St Maxx studded on a 4wd truck would be unstoppable, and pretty much allow any diff combo you want.