I have seen this comment (phrased similarily) in a few of the lighting threads? Even the Hella Rallye 4000 (and all other highly rated driving beam lamps) with a 55watt bulb will be a hazzard to oncoming drivers if not shut off at a distance of 450m separation.
Somewhere in my signature it is written.
The winch should be rated to at least the GVWR of the vehicle it is mounted on. Using a proper snatch block will help with the really good stucks.
I run ARBs on both ends, with an on board air setup. Much more predictable than a limited slip type differential; it is either open or locked. I've had the misfortune of spinning out because the limited slip decided to lock up on snow.
I run aftermarket intake (AFE PG7 and exhaust (MBRP turbo back), and have a programmer with custom tunes, and other supporting mods. No shortage of power and torque (425/780 dyno'ed) and it is almost too much :) for trail crawling. It really depends on the type of offroading being done if engine...
I would add that if the heads come off, have them milled flat. Factory machining of the heads is best described as awful. The block deck should also be trued up using a large true-block and varying grit (coarse to fine) wet/dry paper. A coolant filter is also beneficial even with the EGR deleted.
Depends on the tire diameter. I run 18" rims, but I have 37" tires. Within reason, rim being 1/2 the diameter of the tire is the rulle of thumb I go with.
I want to add to the insulation topic. Whenever you have an loose-fill (batt, blown-in, etc.) insulated cavity, you need a vapor barrier on the side that you have climate control over. The other side needs to be somewhat air permeable, so that any moisture that makes it's way in can eventually...
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