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I plan on stopping by homedepot and picking up some flat metal bar (perhaps one with a 90 degree bend) and building a bar. I saw someone post a picture of one in the past that they also used on their crank shaft pulley... it should do the trick for this as well. Hopefully it does work out...

well... worst comes to worst... I watch the pick a parts locations for the next few weeks and pick me another rear diff :-) I'm sure that is cheaper then paying someone to make this one work properly. although, if I had the time (and tools), I'd be down with trying to adjust everything... I...

Oops! http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/128893-You-tell-me-how-bad-am-I-screwed

I guess my big concern is that I've moved the inner bearing closer to the pinion gear by tapping the back of the flange. Or is the inner bearing snug against the back of the pinion gear head, such that the bearing can't physically get any closer anyway?

I only had about 70 miles on this pick-a-parts diff... but it didn't make any noises that I was able to notice.... had a good mix of highway and surface streets miles. Can I do this with the ring gear still attached? or am I going to have to pull the diff? (I'm assuming that I have to pull...

Although, it is probably my inner bearing that is incorrect now. When I hit the back of the flange, all of the force would have been against that bearing, and not the one that I can see in my video. But isn't the back of the inner bearing pushing up against the gearing from the pinion?

I'm going to have to answer negative on both of these... It looks like I need a inch lb torque wrench, which I can source no problem... but can the pre-load be properly set with the ring gear installed? I can pull the axle shafts out easy enough so the ring gear turns freely. basically, my...

if I put the flange on and turn it by hand... the thing I'm holding will move in and out about 3/4ths of an inch. I can see there is a bearing which in the FSM is labeled as "Drive pinion front bearing inner race" moves around as well. You can see it move with the drive pinion at about 13...

So I was planning on swapping out the seal from behind the flange where the rear drive shaft connects into the differential. I have a diff in my garage with the 4.27 gears, so I tested on that and the flange slid right off with a couple of taps of a hammer to the back of the flange. So i did...

I only put a few miles on the 33s after they were installed... but with the new gears, it does feel more peppy... I'll probably be much happier I installed them after my next wheeling trip where I'm up at 8k elevation for several days. even on the 31s (worn down to 30.25s) at those high...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMtWHiPnISY I think this is pretty similar to the gen 2.5 the process is pretty simple but time consuming. Undo air intake undo a bunch of wiring harnesses unbolt the top of the intake plenum unbolt the bottom of the intake plenum at this point, you will now...

I think this is the thing that had a line filled with oil... although it could have been the breather line that feeds into the top of the diff housing. The oil was in there before I pulled the diff off. When cleaning out the 4x4 flashing lights, these are the areas that are getting cleaned...

BINGO! I didn't see a really obvious way to disconnect the brake line from the shield on the rears, so I disconnected the metal brake line from the flexible bit that goes to the caliper/piston. As such, I had to bleed the brakes a little... shouldn't have been enough to cause the fluid to go...

JUST finished a test ride. In terms of the gears, everything works! Tested a little 4low and nothing sounded like I destroyed montero, so that's a bonus. now, my emergency brake light is on, even though I don't have the brake on. I did give plenty of slack (or so I thought) in the ebrake...

it looks like the flange that the passenger side CV shaft bolts onto (the short axle shaft that goes into the front diff on the passenger side) is JUST SLIGHTLY smaller on the 99 compared to the 94... A few taps with the hammer and unbolting the shock at the bottom and the shafts are swapped...

I only shift into 4LL with the other gear selector in neutral. Seems that any stress on the transfer case makes it hard to go into 4LL, even with the vehicle not moving.

well... I'm stuck I can't seem to get the CV shaft on the passenger side from my 99 to bolt onto the flange from the 94. I can only get one bolt to line up, but none of the others line up at all. I've rotated the CV shaft to try it in each of the 4 positions that it goes to. Looking at rock...

No such luck around here. One of the disadvantages of large city.... If I bought the warranty I'd be good, but I didn't spring for the extra 15-20 bucks on the part to have the option to return it in 30 days.

No worries.... I should have just picked all the parts from the same vehicle to ensure a match... I didn't measure a scientific way, but the axle shaft on the LS is smaller than the shaft on the SR (or the seal is smaller anyway... hopefully I put the right replacement seal into the SR front.

the spring may need to be on the right of the male piece. Being on the right, will force the shift knob to the right as well.... so the lever on the left is the 2wd lever all the way forward on the left should be 2wd. where the two line up, that should be the point where the shift lever can...