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Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. Case in point... my opinion definitely differs from yours.

If, as I expect, this wind turbine is not built to deal with vibration, it will simple fall apart if fitted to a vehicle. A DC/DC charger powered by the alternator would likely give you more reliable power at roughly the same cost.

Much less movement than what? I don't know what the legal requirements are in the US, but I would suggest using Niloc nuts, instead of plain nuts, on the bolts restraining the springs. Personally, I would also use a washer between the nut and the spring.

Mix and match them with what? As mentioned already, the offsets are different between the Isuzu and the Fuso, so super singles need to be for the specific make if you want the track to be the same on the front and rear. Edit: If you are unfamiliar with these super singles... The same rim is...

When it comes to sound dampening expertise, I am no expert by any means, but in my personal experience with using Dynamat on my own truck (and some others) I was very happy with the noise reduction inside the cab after doing this modification. I can speak at normal volumes in the cab and have...

Are you building an expedition vehicle or a tank?

If your passthru is only for emergency use, I would simply use two separate doors. This would also negate any issues related to articulation between the cab and the camper body. Given that you have a luton peak, there would not be any weather related issues traversing between the cab and camper...

This simple, and relatively cheap, modification will make a significant difference to the sound levels in the cab. Don't under estimate how much of a difference using something like Dynamat in the cab will make to the comfort level.

Have you installed sound deadening in the cab? http://canter4x4.com/technical/improving-the-cabs-insulation/

Personally, I agree with your welder. Good call.

Is your spare tyre/air conditioner frame only mounted at the bottom, or is it attached to the camper body too?

Link?

I based my comment on the information YOU provided.

You obviously size cabling very differently than I do... At 80 amps with 4AWG wire that is 13 feet long (actually 26 feet, as you need to calculate using both positive and negative) you will get a voltage drop of 0.52 volts, which is 3.92%. That is beyond what I would consider acceptable...

So... what size cable did you run over what length?

My main concern with this unit is the size of the cabling you need to run to it.

Simply design the build so that there are no water sources near the electrical components. That's what I did.

What's with the 2 rods under your dinette table?

Search this section of the forum, as this question has been asked and answered numerous times already. Rust in the chassis is the main one, especially around the step area. If the trucks have been used as a snow plow, stress cracks at the front of the chassis is another area to pay attention to...

... nor a DPF or EGR. :)