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I totally agree, that's why all of my centrally mounted tanks (fuel and water) have their own 3 point kinematic mounts. My other tanks are mounted directly to my subframe, which also has a kinematic spring mounting system. :)

Absolutely, but there is still the slight possibility of it happening. As I said... it is relatively simple to include a basic safety system. I did this with electronics and a couple of capacitive switches, but a tube between both tanks would also work.

Realistically, it does not matter if the fuel is diesel or petrol/gas; the concepts are the same. I actually like Mick's setup, as it simply makes 2 tanks into 1, negating the need to do anything manually. :) Be mindful that if you do intend to use a transfer pump, it is technically possible to...

As has been noted above, you have numerous options when it comes to a second fuel tank. On my truck I have 2 tanks, but only one is monitored by the truck's fuel gauge. There is a custom made stainless steel centrally mounted 200L tank between the chassis rails and another 110L custom stainless...

One thing to consider would be how much the turning circle is affected by increasing the wheelbase.

These trucks don't have the greatest airflow to the radiator (and intercooler, if your truck has one) at the best of times, so adding something that would potentially reduce that airflow further may prove problematic. I don't know how your truck is configured (upgraded front bar, recovery winch...

That is definitely a surprise to me, as none of their vehicles retained the OEM wheels when they went out the door. They must have done something with them...

There comes a time when all things mechanical have issues. Not a lot you can do about that, other than keeping the maintenance up and crossing your fingers... ;)

That is exactly how I have done my main fuel tank and primary water tanks. :)

That's one way to address your problem... :giggle:

Don't ya hate it when something turns out to be your own fault... :(

I totally agree, but the problem would be getting in contact with someone there. Maybe try to contact Lance directly.

I cannot tell you the exact difference, but yes, the offset is slightly different between Fuso and Isuzu super single rims. If you contact ATW Australia they should be able to tell you the difference, but it's not a lot. The bolt pattern, for the six stud wheels, is exactly the same for both...

The FG140 is equivalent to our FG84, which has M20 studs.

The studs are M20x1.5 and are the same back and front. Don't forget... there are both left and right hand threads.

You could try bicarb soda to remove the corrosion and then use dielectric grease inside the housing to limit any moisture ingress.

I hate to point it out, but it has been mentioned many times on this forum that the earth connections on these trucks should be one of the first places to inspect if there are electrical related issues.

I would have thought that you have answered your own question...

If your vehicle is indeed OBDII compliant, pretty much any reader should be able to interpret the data that comes out of the ECU. The determining factor will be what you expect to use the tool for. If it is simply to read the output and maybe clear any error codes, or take it out of limp mode...

From what I have read over the years, you would be the exception. I cannot speak from personal experience, but there is a lot of documented evidence that this model of Fuso was not a reliable truck.