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I have some firgelli 400# units that I wanted to sorta test their capacity (and how much the amp draw varied between unloaded and heavy), I don't recall the exact weight but I clipped myself in a climbing harness (~190lb) and a backpack with bricks in it (in the maybe another 80lb off memory)...

No idea what is on the market, I just know I'd look long/hard for them and know what kind of value they'd hold to me personally with hindsight. If I didn't need to spend the hours I needed to making the panels then I'd likely have had a finished camper about now (or a shell at least). :)

Find some panels, trust me. :p No its a few inches higher than the stock bed (I want to say 3-4" off my head but don't recall the stock bed height anymore, I think it was earlier in the thread...). I factored that into the front wall weight of my design. The UTE bed (when I got it anyways, no...

Moving to a new place, had to make up the jack brackets. Got to see what this looked like on the truck, SOMEDAY...

Been on an extendo break, reality of 3 little kids set in once #3 cleared the mostly all sleeping stage (along with still trying to pursue some other things in life). Life is calming down again, relatively..., I'll be starting to chip away again near term but have been dragging my feet a tad as...

So our new base slides and swivels? That's pretty cool if so.

Naw, I have you beat. :p

The relay board with a main bus is pretty cool of dispersing power in the back yet having low amp switches elsewhere.

I was looking around some on astro stuff and as long as you were using stock stuff I didn't think it sounded too bad for anyone that is comfortable pulling the subframe out from under a vehicle. You'd need the AWD subframe, front suspension, trans & t-case, drive shafts, etc. mechanically. Not...

Like I said predictable. ;) you have control over temp to avoid. I have two speeds of epoxy hardener specifically to deal with high and low temps, know your product and when to use/not use.

Two part products are nice for predictable curing.

It's just two wires, a basic single pole switch is fine. I installed one in parallel to the thermostat on my old camper.

I was thinking perimeter snaps/Velcro/magnets around the outer door for putting up a screen material. Concern with the lower door would be having that open and then opening the big door would bang it into the side of the camper.

Epoxy isn't UV stable, it will chalk and degrade over time when exposed to UV. IF you want to try something like this you'd need to use a UV varnish over top that would likely require periodic reapplication over the years. Epoxy/micro balloons smeared on and back sanded with a 7" sander...

Slowly still chipping away, life, newborn (and the other two young ones), the heat, and an issue with a neighbor (so I try to avoid power tool late or long, unfortunately later works better on the family front). Anyways door is mostly shaped now, time consuming to build. Need to epoxy in the...

Would a high top, extended body E350 with a 4x4 conversion if you enough footprint? You can find high top vans for a reasonable cost, then send for a 4x4 conversion (or do it yourself but you're on a timetable) and then focus on building out the interior. Perk of this over a box truck the...

Unless you need the short wheel base I'd think a 4x4 conversion on a van would be the ticket. Some folks do flip up beds and even haul bike(s) internally.

Here ya go: http://www.aluminess.com/trucks.htm

A bit more per watt that some other offerings but yeah that footprint is more compact for the wattage. What'd they hit you up for on shipping?

Well I'm doing a fiberglass build so it quickly comes to mind. :p I'm not familiar with the bonding profiles of rubber or aluminum over foam. I do know how to bond fiberglass on it so that's what I suggested. If you have an RV manufacturer around you might be able to source a singular sheet...