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Ouch, it is hard enough getting the carpet liner off the back when closed... Thankfully the part is cheap and easy to replace. Just do it every 40k

Do share. I could use a plaque for the garage wall.

Be very cautious of the spacers. While not 100% confirmed to be a problem, there is enough evidence to say that are a very big contributing factor. Even just a bent shock or failed bump stop (inside the shock) can cause the upper a-arm to contact the airbag. It is very very tight up there.

Personally I would start with the IID lift. Then get some adjustable rods if you want to go higher. Since the IID tool is soo handy. You can have the best of both worlds. . Install the rods for how much lift you want after the tool (if needed, I didn't). Get it aligned Drive to trail. Plug in...

RRS are more durable than the LR3 parts. Many LR3 people have specifically switch to the RRS parts for increased lifespan. IIRC the RRS is solid rubber, LR3 is a hydro. So if you put the LR3 part on a RRS, it won't be as durable. Mine were replaced at 40k on my LR3 ;)

You sure can, but then they fail every 30-50k soo....

Interesting. So that is how they made the sliders fit. On the old version the metal extended the entire way back to the wheel. Personally I would find a way to bolt/weld a piece of metal to cover the exposed compressor. Eventually when my compressor goes I'll need to do a modification to get...

Yes: "First Overland", you can get a copy from here: http://www.teeafit.co.uk/firstoverland/ Its got some really great footage.

And then the rest for a bribe to Customs for letting them in the country :coffee:

There is a guy in the UK that has well over 400k on his LR3 (he tows with it for his business), maybe even 500k now. Search for user 'character' on www.disco3.co.uk You can see what it takes to get that many miles and what he's replaced over the years.

Is it titled as a diesel?

Awesome. Thanks

Man prices vary around the county. An '04 is 9-11k around the PNW. 5k if it isn't running :Wow1:

Unless I'm remembering things wrong - I thought when the viscous center dies it goes to 100% full lock? That's why they recommend driving circles in a parking lot so you can hear the tires squeal as the diff is locked

Sure they won't rub when driving down the street, but start flexing the suspension offroad and they will. All 32" require trimming(on '08-'09 some cutting of steel) and work at the rear wheels for the body seam bump. I agree with the BFG AT's - best non 32" tire out there for the 18". Loved...

Do you find the Zeon's better than the BFG AT's in the red clay mud? Figured you need to go to a full Mud tire to get any sort of cleanout.

if you don't want a lift a 265/65/18 or 31.5" tire is going to be the largest you can run. Depending on your use, the BFG AT is a pretty damn good choice for running on the street and trail. Mine did great on the street and pretty good in the PNW's trails. I've since switched to 17" and put...

I had a similar experience with my Tactical rovers sliders. Nothing a cut off wheel and welder couldn't fix.. but still.

Personally I think 31.5 (265/65/18) is the perfect size for the LR3. Very slight rubbing and you can still roll on bump stops. Only down side is no MT choices in that size, unless you go down to 17" wheels (using the new luckly8 steel or OEM Land Rover with v6 brakes).

As an interesting bit of anecdote here - When I ran 31.5 BFG AT's I can only remember the DSC kicking in on fast winding roads once or twice. I then switched to the same diameter BFG MT's (no other change to the vehicle) and it kicks in much much more. The MT's weight less than the AT's. . But...