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I did the same thing in almost the same situation with my 1991 Blazer with a 4" suspension lift and factory shackles except it was a left hand sweeper with a bump and I rolled. I was towing a Chevy 1/2 ton on a 16' car trailer. My Blazer was upside down so fast it wasn't funny, and you could...

Grab a good 5" grinder and some good quality zip wheels like Walter abrasives, the thinner the better, we use .040 thick wheels. They make very fast work and nice clean cuts.

You have to build aluminum very rigid especially in a short package. A 40' trailer with a 16" I beam that is 5/8" thick will safely flex quite a bit and those nice trailers are usually riding on air. You can build a small frame out of aluminum, design your frame so the weld points have the least...

I don't know if the owner is a member here. The axles in his Nissan are dana 60 rear and 44 front with an 8 lug pattern and the trailer started out for a Jeep owner so it has Jeep bolt pattern. His Nissan is a beauty. I don't think he's going to paint it, all steel components are powdercoated...

Rob, the bent tub design is the way to save weight without a subframe. You might want to look into a local sheetmetal shop to form and weld a tub for you rather than tube and sheet a structure, saves time, material, and looks sexy too:). It may actually cost close to the same too.

Absolutely correct. There is 120 pounds of weight saved with the aluminum body and that is comparing .125 aluminum to .0625 steel. The chassis is rigid and so is the tub, there is a very real fatigue issue when aluminum is not used correctly. The rack transfers all the rack weight to the top...

Thanks guys, mostly thanks Don if you read this for the opportunity to build this for you. Here is some of the logic behind the trailer. The trailer is small but bigger than it looks, you can fit a full sized ATV in it along with a pile of gear (lid would have to be off to fit ATV). Hinged...

I just finished up a trailer for a very good customer, he pulls it behind his very cool Nissan pick up that matches the trailer very nicely. Trailer is on leafs for simplicity and reliablilty, tube frame, rear tire carrier and reciever for mountain bikes, scepter can holders, propane and battery...

Awesome to see another big truck guy! Is the truck a Bedford?

Very cool, always wondered how a converted ambulance would look but never visualized your creation. Looks great.

The fender is just mush from the big break all the way down, if it was just the big break I'd bite the bullet and do it. JS, Alberta is just a high dollar neighborhood unless you get way out of the major centers which would mean a 4+ hour drive, I'd sooner pay the evil brown machine (UPS) to...

I searched all over here, most trucks around here get beat to death instead of miled out so body parts are hard to find. The body shop quote was $750 to fix without paint, I hate working with fiberglass too. I wish I lived near a surf board builder! That would probably mean I wouldn't be looking...

My truck is a 1996 F-700 and I need a drivers side "quarter fender" "rear wheel house" or what ever you would like to call the broken fiberglass part in the picture! Ford has gone obsolete on me but I'm positive there are one of these things kicking around a wrecking yard near some of the major...

The Cage arms also leave you with a little more than zero articulation, had a customer with them on a F-250, didn't work good at all. They sure forced the rear suspension to articulate. When I was at TTC this year there was a 4wd van on 37's with a very nice 4 link front done by Toby at XXX...

I just bought a picker similar to the one on the back for $14 000 plus $5000 for the deck leaves about a $5000 allowance on the truck. I still think it's a bit steep in Alberta's oil slump.

Here is a quick breakdown of Pro Comp shock numbers, they are a half decent shock and reasonably priced, once you have a number you can trace back to the application and search other manufacturers that way, here goes: Part number 921500 (would work good in your rig) Breakdown 9=9000 series...

PM sent, thanks a ton! It is an ambitious project and an even more ambitious budget including buying selling and trading my way into supplies. This is a definite plus, thanks again.

Chip, there are 2 heavy duty shear plates at the rear of the frame and 2 sets of spring mounts per side, spread over a 12 foot frame rail. There is a 3/8" strip of rubber along the entire frame rail for isolation. I wouldn't think you would want any more than a couple of inches of travel allowed...

Here is a subframe that I built to mount a big camper on a Top Kick. The top of frame to top of cab measurement on this unit is 5 feet so a 16" elevated subframe had to be built, this leaves 4" cab clearance at the center and the roof of the truck is nicely crowned which keeps the camper contact...

I managed to locate a few pics of the deuce, do you have a build thread somewhere? Thanks.