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I have mine tinted. I re-tinted after replacing the roof. This works really well, to keep some of the heat down. A decent quality dark tint is my preference. The first time it was darker, the 2nd time I ended up with something slightly clearer, and it's too bright for my tastes. I've been happy...

There are two different axles as Justin mentioned. It cannot hurt at all to install the HD axles, as that is a weak point. They are interchangeable, as far as fit is concerned. Might be worth picking them up at a salvage yard, but they are probably few and far between.

I meant, they are sold as kits from ARB.

The rear e-locker is what I have, has been more than adequate. We've built out a few ready to install (ARB) for people. I can get you an e-mail address of a couple of guys, drop me a pm if you like.

You might get lucky... I assume the tranny was never services. There are some components that seize up on the shift lever. Check that out for rust and corrosion. I can get you the P/Ns for the components. I'd assume the worst though.

The front does lag a little. Probably two reasons for that, the bulk of the weight is there, and it is the farthest from the compressor/tank. While you are checking for leaks, spray the front of the air tank, there is a fitting there that can leak. If you have deflated your air springs, and...

Thank You, the book looks awesome, very well done. Looking forward to seeing more.

They don't offer the crush sleeve, or gears. The link I posted manufactures them.

Here, only supplied as complete kits though or reman units though.

Just a tip on extra solar. I see those pop up on craigslist for dirt cheap regularly, try a bigger city.

Thanks-- Interesting stuff... I won't hurt to try it.. Hopefully the copious use of snatch blocks will prevent the type of loads required to trip it.. Post up your results after you install it and test it.. I might even kick around installing one.

When you purchase your winch, don't forget some recovery gear, some shackles, and a couple of snatch blocks, etc.. maybe you can get them to throw some in if you do not have already.

If you can swing it, and have the space, the Deka line I mentioned does 80 and larger Ah versions (I have two) one I replaced the Optima with and one I replaced the Interstate with. I'm tickled with them so far. A couple of photos here, you can click and see that particular one is 92Ah. The one...

Well, the length of the power run, and the amount of Amperage you plan to carry does matter. Indeed, it has been done before correctly, and incorrectly. Put your budget on the side for a moment, and let's spec it out properly, then you can find the right stuff within your budget. It seems like...

45W solar will not be enough, you need at least a 100W. That trailer living for the battery means you need something like the Optima or Deka AGM Intimidator to take the vibration and bouncing. It should be mounted fast, so it can't bounce around in your battery box.

It might be worthwhile to back up, and actually do the math on your power requirements, and not rush off and order those batteries. You also need to know what you are doing to run wiring, etc. unless you want to risk burning down your project vehicle.. So maybe we can start over here..

So what is the wire size if it is run, and the total max amperage it will be carrying as you see it? You could consider a remote relay, then you will not have to run wires for the switch.

Others have done this, but your gear ratios are limited, and the one you have is as good as it gets. In short, I wouldn't be to concerned about gear ratio. Here is a neat calculator to show you the differences of various tire and wheel combinations.. 255/55/19 vs 285/60/18 255/55/19 vs...

Nice article, but there is no mention of the caster, camber, height calibration, etc. I wonder if Scott has the actual final printout of reads he finds acceptable.. I'd like to compare them to the printouts I have.

I wish Scott would get LRLV to write an article on how to properly do it.