If this prototype works out, I could always make a mold from this original. You apply mold release to the original's surface and fiberglass over it to make negative's. You pop off the negative mold and strengthen it with reinforcement. You then have a mold that you can copy the original with...
I'll have to update the photoshop picture below. I increased the height of the Roof Top Section from 8" to 16". I'm going for enough headroom inside to move around or even camp without raising the roof. I'm building the final shell, and not a mold.
These FRP panels are waterproof and somewhat UV resistant. I'll finish paint them to further protect them from UV. These are white polyester based fiberglass reinforced panels from Menards. Other hardware stores also stock this, but you want to be careful to make sure what the panels are made...
Good catch. On the first FRPs I used gorilla glue and screws to hold the panels down until the glue dried. I then glassed the interior and removed the screws. It worked great, but I'm going to have to bondo fill and sand the dimples and holes left from the screws, before paint. The main...
It will flex more when loaded. I am surprised how stiff the Gladiator frame is in comparison to my Tundra and old Ford F150. I didn't measure the flex with those trucks, but you could easily see it when off road.
Come to think about it, I haven't seen anyone else do this. I wanted to keep the exterior as smooth as possible, and this way, I don't have to build a mold for the fiberglass. The FRP is pretty easy to use and it seemed the easiest/fastest way, but we'll see.
To your point there are a lot materials that use fiberglass as a stiffener.
The panels are white polyester based FRP (Fiberglas Reinforced Panels). The resin I am using is also polyester. It's important to use compatible materials which is why I'm using polyester instead of epoxy resin. You...
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