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While putting the weight in the right place seems (and is) important, so is access for filling, cleaning, rinsing, disinfection, etc…. I personally like the standard scepter/LCI water jugs because the are small and light enough to move around for load balancing, fit in standard Jerry can...

I posted some in the show your storage thread 5-6 years ago. I can take a few recent ones tomorrow or Wednesday, so you can see the patina. It has been working well. I don’t have pictures of the bracket I built, but the post is linked here...

For my JK, I built a full width sliding cargo tray that bolts to the rear seat mounts into the floor and the 4 tie down points on the floor. It is about 3-4” off the floor and allows access to the floor cubby and stores a folding plastic table underneath as well.

This is true. I once had to remove the weld bead from inside of a 6’ long tube that I used for my telescopic trailer tongue. It wasn’t fun. As far as your Home Depot tubing, I’m guessing you got the square profile punched/slotted tube like you use for shelving and other DIY projects? That...

There is definitely a pro in the simplicity. You can use relatively cheap sliding tube with a lot of slop and loose pins and not worry much about binding. It will take a few minutes to raise and lower but it should work out. Slight con design consideration is to make sure whatever sub frame...

Running continuously should not matter, my gen II ARB has been running for almost 7 years with only power offs to work in the Jeep or if it kills the battery. Check: Your battery voltage Is your cord tight? Does it work on AC? What size and length wiring from battery to fridge? Continuity...

Yes. To this point, too far back is better than too far forward with respect to axle position. Keeping the weight mostly between the axle and tongue “may” cause tongue weight problems, but having a majority of the weight behind the axle and not enough on the tongue “will” cause control...

It doesn’t. No commercial truck does, but it is just a rule of thumb, and really just for bumper pull trailers, versus fifth wheel styles that are more concerned with axle loads than tongue weight. Many commercial trucks can slide the axle assembly back and forth to achieve the correct loading...

Only if it is certified sustainably harvested titanium!

This hasn’t happened to me, but I’ve been suspicious that it would, considering how the knobs stick out and are likely subject to damage. I would suggest getting another cheap plastic knob that has the flat side for indexing and use that. I would much prefer to break a knob than a gas valve...

Yeah, I’ve done that before with receivers that had a lot of slop and the bouncing of the trailer was annoying. Typically, I weld on a 1/2-13 heavy hex nut so that I have more thread than I can cut into whatever thin stuff I’m working with and then I get a “set screw” that can be snugged nicely...

Have you considered welding (or bolting?) square sockets into the bottom of the frame and then putting jacks underneath into those holes? I definitely see the issue. You should be easily able to weld onto some of those square tube jacks with a square pin to go either inside or over that tube...

In fairness to the local welder, that $1500 is probably broken down into $800 for 4’ of steel, $500 to PG&E (Price Gouging & Extortion?) for electrons, $200 to alimony…. A legit business expense! I recommend that you go to Harbor Freight or similar and grab a 1-1/4” to 2” adapter. If that fits...

Is the tube 1-1/2 inside or outside? That would be really easy to make a mount for. If you use them both, it will be much more stable than the existing single tongue Jack. Using a tongue Jack gives easy crank up and down ability, but they could also be used as pivot points for flip-down legs...

What you are asking exists for 2” receiver mounts. I’ve not seen a 1-1/2” receiver before, nor have I seen a trailer jack with a 1-1/4” square mount. Although I also realize this thread is months old. Did you solve your problem?

I knew it was done, I’m just looking for ideas. Those were some cool ones. Now I’m getting spun up on some more thoughts! Thanks!

So I’ve been starting to run low on projects and thinking about new ways to waste my time and money while avoiding the stuff my wife wants done. I realized that a lot of my hard mounting points are designed to accommodate 20L NATO cans. This brings me to ideas of either modifying Jerry cans to...

I’ve always been partial to Vasque, and last time I bought a pair, they were available through Redwing stores. I’ve since moved on from Redwing for my annual work boot purchase, so I don’t know if they still carry Vasque, but I would struggle to change brands unless they stopped making them, as...

It seems like it would be better to modify the tank to have a second fill neck? Have you considered that?

Having a bed rack that raises and lowers is probably more effective than a wind deflector, although more expensive. Some foam on the edge of the tent might be cheaper and easier.