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You know, I am not sure, it may have one. I will have to check the manual. That would work fine if the logic is available. In that case 30mA consumption isn't a big deal. The issue of course is without the relay closed, the controller will never come out of sleep mode. Not sure it would help...

If the unit had sufficiently high control voltage, I could tie it to the PV+, and use the BMS open drain to supply ground control. Since the BMS can handle 60V, and my PV array is around 48V absolute max, this may do the trick.

Yes, I was looking through the mouser and digikey catalogs for a good option. Those look better than most, with 9-20mA on current. Since the charge bus will probably be powered 99.99% of the time, low power consumption is important. As is low resistance, as I don't want to loose 10W of solar...

The Orion BMS supports charge and load disconnect signals separate from each other. Both have programmable logic. SOC, cell voltage, current, temperature, etc. Outback (maker of my solar charge controller), specifies that the PV must be disconnect prior to the battery side. Hence my idea of...

In the event of a fault I would prefer the BMS be able to disconnect charging sources separate from loads. As some faults would stop charging, but allow discharging to continue. Otherwise the main contactor would need to drop out, and the load bus would be unpowered.

https://www.oshcut.com/

Unfortunately I am using a outback flexmax, older version. The only way to remote control it would be hacking their proprietary bus. Which has mostly been done, but I would need a bunch of work to send commands... Looks like there are some 4 channel FET boards for arduino/prototyping. With...

Yeah, I have a few spares from the 4x4 display panel lying around to play with. After reviewing the specs, it looks like the relay pins are good to 60V and 175mA, so I don't need isolation, just a sufficient resistor to limit current under max transients. Buried in the BMS manual is this...

Getting pretty close. Still waiting on some small ID pipe insulation. I opted to hit all the copper lines with some cold galvanizing spray. Its 70% zinc, and should extend their life under a vehicle. I glued a cap over the unused motor end/bearing. I also glued a seal to the output side of...

I cut the drain hole. I just got some sikaflex adhesive, so the pan should be getting bonded in tomorrow. Once its bonded in, I will sand the edges flush with the floor, and seal the gap with some urethane. I will cut down the removed floor section to a tight fit, then use some rigid foam and...

Making progress on the box. Everything is fitting so far. I am working through the BMS specs, and making a wiring diagram. Since the Orion Jrs outputs are limited to 175mA, I need amplification/relay control. Something in the 5A range should work. Anybody got a solid state relay...

PS: The crappy floor tiles are getting replaced. I am thinking a single piece of rubber or linoleum.

I just got the electrical connectors, so I am ready to finish up the wiring and paint everything. After that I just need to bolt everything in and run a bunch of wire and copper lines. I anticipate the copper lines may be the hardest part. I could go with flex lines, but they area pricey, so...

More holes coming through. The stainless pan I welded up for the shower was a total failure. Warped almost 1", and could not be flattened... I grabbed some 14 gauge diamond plate, and cut/welded a quick pan up today. Being T0 or simialar temper, it was easy to flatten out. The pan may...

Got some of the AC parts. Here are the low loss disconnects. IMG_20200723_090701762 It's coming together. IMG_20200723_101830785 IMG_20200723_120255896 IMG_20200723_130409828 Excuse the hack job, but I have deadlines to meet. I did some math, and added a bit more airflow with some...

Didn't they have I4s? They were common in the Yucatan when we passed through.

It's on the list. I still need to work out dangles and tie downs before I paint etc.

Over in the Van build thread, I cut a big hole in the floor...

Did the deed. Quite a bit of Australian terra firma was sequestered inside the floor support. I have no idea how it got in there, as the biggest hole is only 0.45"... IMG_20200722_122203037_HDR

I am not sure, but maybe 4-6 strips with a gap will work I think. Otherwise I will just anchor one end, and let the float. Some experimentation to do. I am not doing continuous welds, likely just stitch welding between 25-50% of any given joint.