Making progress on the evaporator. My welds look like ********, probably a result on using straight argon (I am welding lots of aluminum and don't want to buy another bottle).
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I took at a look at those. 8,000btu is a bit larger than I need. The real issue is the condenser is ~20" tall, which is not conducive to underbody mounting. The compressors are also 12-14" tall, which doesn't make for easy interior mounting once you include vibration dampening. Now I could...
The process could be performed using just rivets. Sheetmetal screws tend to loosen over time. Small machine bolts could work, but there is limited interior clearance in spots. I chose to weld because I had the machine setup from another project. The evap will require some different assembly...
Picked up some 16 and 22 gauge steel sheet and started hacking a bit.
Welding dirty 28 gauge metal is not fun with 0.03" wire, bit it should hold together.
I don't have any issue with startup surge, as I have a 3kw inverter. I am mostly just thinking of ways to reduce cycling and power consumption when cooling just my bed area. In modest temps, such as a 80F night with 100% humidity, I may want to sleep in comfort. That doesn't need a lot of...
Inverter losses are about 8% for this load.
You can do the math. The best units are between 2.5-4.0 coefficient of performance. That means for every 1 watt of input power you get 2.5-4.5W of cooling. So if you want 5,000btu/hr (1,460W) of cooling, you need about 1,460/3 = 486W of input...
Depends on how much you run it. It uses about 450-500W running through an inverter. I am working on a way to run or at half speed for half the cooling.
Initial work on this subject is over here.
https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/overland-sprinter-build.156260/page-10
The short of it, I am trying to build a Split AC system in the ~5,000btu range. Limited space, cost, and running occasionally from battery power drove me towards...
Related, there are several mail order laser cutting services. I have had good luck with this one. Instant quotes, they meet their shipping deadlines, etc. There are several free cad programs you can use to draw a 2D part, and its effortless to upload and get a quote. No dealing with a surly...
I have had similar experiences on boats, so stainless was my go-to. Though I have heard they increased the glass fiber content of the plastic recently, but who knows. The southco original stainless are something like 30$+ each.
The galley looks like its going to be around 1,000$ with...
I am thinking Southco M1 Latches. They have a model that works with 2-7mm thick front panels, which is ideal. I am not looking forward to welding all these bins up. But I am tired of water damage, splintered edges, and broken glue joints in wood.
Making progress on the galley design. I tried some of the SMAW/stick aluminum electrodes on some 0.1" aluminum I had lying around. The results were atrocious. Brutally hard to start at low amperage and very short arc length. The flux pool is indistinguishable from the metal pool. I can't...
I have a battery build going over here. Steel for the box is in the mail, and cells will be on a boat soon.
Making some progress on the galley. I think we have decided to go with aluminum bins. Still working on the counter material. I was thinking high density plywood, but I believe...
Cool, keep us posted on your results. If I was mounting inside I would use a simple enclosure method. But these are going exterior. The last piece of equipment mounted in that area got filled with Australian dirt and mud packed solid. So I need a bit of protection. :ROFLMAO:
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