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There are lots of toroidal transformer based units. These typically use a servo motor to adjust the voltage. Used to be popular with expats in the Gulf. Won't handle spikes, but they are excellent for adjusting for voltage that is long term too high or too low. Most will also serve as step...

A well traveled beast - glad she has a new home. May you have lots of great trips and welcome to the clan of "where can I get that part in North America"!

Having a 1990 truck, I love blogs like this!

All depends on your usage patterns. Do you expect to have shore power often? Are you building an extended off-grid system that depends on engine and solar to charge? How big a battery, how big a load? 110v shore power only or do you need 110/220v charging? Do you need 110v in the vehicle...

Doesn't really matter. And varies a bit with device. As far as I can tell, my Magnum inverter/charger just passes shore power to the loads and the internal charger is just one more load. If your shore power device doesn't pass current directly through to the load, as in the case of my 220v...

Turn ‘em all on.

You are making this WAY too hard. I have 12v camper/house battery in a 24v truck. (One can debate 12v vs. 24v, but for a small vehicle, like a Trooper, I suspect that a 12v system is best.) From the 24v, positive terminal of your stater battery(s) - run an appropriately sized, and fused, wire...

Lifelines are great, but in 2023, I would not pay money for anything but lithium iron.

Scholars differ. I like Redrac and Sterling Power. Redarc units are nice, epoxy sealed bricks. (Nice if you have to mount under the hood/outside of the camper, etc. But don't do it if you can avoid it, even with a sealed unit that doesn't have a fan.) All programming is connecting and...

OK, I'll help spend your money. As to capacity, guesstimate 80% usable and you will be fine. I am so lazy that I assume that my 280Ah cells are about 250Ah usable. ("Good" companies [as opposed to those that are simply misleading you] that advertise "100%" usable capacity simply oversize their...

You lost me. The Victron B2B should be grounded and the positive leads connected: Starter Battery>B2B>Camper Battery. It should have nothing to do with any shore charger. (Same deal with your solar charger, Panel(s)>Solar Charger/controller>Camper Battery.) FWIW: A shore charger would be...

Actually sounds about right. Truck is sitting on solar charge, hits full charge, goes to float. You start the engine and the B2B kicks in. It will automatically go to bulk, and then, as it reads the battery, cycle through absorb to float. Sounds like it is reading a rather full battery, and...

Welcome! Love those old beasts. In Francophone Africa they were called "le elephant de la piste." The elephant of the (dirt)road. Hope your parts arrive and that you have a safe trip home.

Sizing the wire for the load is essential, but breakers protect you when the insulation wears through and the cable shorts. You don't want 20 foot arc welder under your truck. Hence a breaker within 18 inches of a power source.

My conventional wisdom is that if you can run either battery flat, you have a poor design or poor practice. Let me tell you about the time I left the ignition key on for a week ...:mad:

Conventional wisdom is a breaker/fuse if run is more than about 18 inches. Size to protect the wire. (You can size lower for the load, if you wish, but never higher.)

Methinks you are over panicking! This is REALLY easy. -- Wire at jumper gauge from starter battery to a terminal. -- Wire, again at jumper gauge, from the camper battery to a terminal. -- Wire the B2B between the terminals. (Again, use the wire gauge recommended by the B2B manufacturer.) --...

If you want to use this switch as a manual jump start, then you need to wire it AROUND the B2B. And, if a jump circuit, all of it has to be rated to carry at least 100A, 200A would be better. Remember, a B2B (or at least every one that I know) will pass current only from the starter...

Being lazy, I was only pointing out the copper is copper. If you are moving stuff, then you will have to rewire, but that doesn't mean you can't reuse some of your existing wire if it is the right size, good condition, etc. You can certainly wire up a bypass for the B2B with a remote controlled...

If the wiring for your ACR is big enough, simply put the B2B where the ACR was located - electrically if not physically. This ain't hard; even I can do it! ;) (And if your ACR wiring is not up to snuff, you can simply double it, sometimes this is easier. In the end, copper is copper.)