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My comments are in the thread. You will note that I recommended a radiator fan with a PWM speed control to assure adequate air flow to the compressor. Seems that is what he had to do eventually.

Are you building your own box? If so, have you thought of simply building your own ducts, perhaps with booster fans? You might dump the cold air into a plenum and then use something like a bilge fan (with a speed control to reduce noise) to force air into your two sleeping areas. Ideally, you...

A roof top unit has lots to recommend it. As I say, I am really happy with the Houghton, but that is based on limited testing so far - been too cold for a real stress test. This year may not be a great test as we will be back in the US in July for the hottest months. But, with no access to 110v...

That is the video. Watch/read closely - Jason is not idiot. In future life, I would build slide out solar panels, both for the amperage and, perhaps more importantly, as a double roof and shade for the sides. FWIW, Jason has never bothered to charge from his alternator. But then he shot that...

No - two units. 24v > 12v from the starter battery to the camper and 12v > 24v from the camper battery to the starter. (If I had had the choice, I would have simply gone with a full 24v camper set up and used a step down converter for the last loads. )

Scholars differ, but having 12v A/C scars, I will offer some comments you may wish to consider or ignore. -- For a 12v unit, you gotta run some big wires a long way, otherwise you will have performance loss. Not a problem, but just a cost. -- Most important of all, for me at least, having had...

As noted, I was happy with Fox w/reservoirs. Don't think that they are valved any differently, my only comment on the reservoir was to debate whether you really need the extra fluid capacity. But it never hurts and doesn't cost much more.

Based on my "Twisted Sister™" set up. -- Wire the feed from the starter battery to the B2B that feeds the camper to close only when the engine is running. -- Wire the feed from the camper battery to the B2B that feeds the starter to OPEN when the engine is running. (Use a normally closed...

I used Fox shocks with external reservoirs, but, in reality, for a loaded camper, that is probably overkill - you simply ain't gonna go that fast that long. You could do worse than to consult with U-Joint. Chris and his crew have lots of experience with Ford vans and camper conversions...

I am planning to take the truck to these folks and will roll pump leakage into the process. Getting too old and ugly to do it myself if I am not broken down in the bush. I am just looking forward to access to lots of parts! ;) https://www.unimogs.co.uk/

The usual rules for washboard/tole ondulee/corrugations are: -- Soft tires with tall sidewalls (low pressure) -- Soft, long travel suspension -- Big, big shocks with closer to 50/50 valving. The first production vehicle that I know that incorporated most of these elements was the early...

Interesting. Didn't realize there was still a duty on trucks that old. (Of course, not something that I ever researched.)

For shipping, talk to Martin and co at IVSS. For importation - that can be a challenge if the truck is less than 25 years old. Most cannot meet safety/emission regulations. Not that the vehicles are not safe/clean, but simply that they have never been tested and approved. https://ivssuk.com/

In our case, we carry a small bottle of propane for an outside grille! ;)

We had a single hob Tru Induction, now have a built in Dometic. Doing it over, I would go back to a single hob unit, stored in a drawer. -- Gives you more counter space when not actually cooking and there is less danger of breaking the top -- Costs a bit less. -- Works really well if you...

Mine leaks at the same place and it is a new pump! Grrrr!

The pump is a cheap nice-to-have for all the reasons that Jon mentioned. Ours is simply powered from the 12v camper battery. We had considered one of the sexy FAAS systems, but the dealer noted that it simply was not needed. And our injector pump is leaking a bit and dripping oil on a radiator...

PWM units generally need to be held to less than 32v, so, if your panels are in parallel (like mine) they are likely to be running at over 50v. I like the idea of double tapping the panels to a second controller, I just don't know the implications of doing this. For the task of simply...

Seems that the owner of AMP-L-Start passed away and, as it was basically a one person shop, the company is tied up in estate issues. Pity. If you can find the lithium model buy it. Beyond that, double tapping one set of solar panels sounds interesting, but I have never done it, so I cannot...

With a pair of lead acid batteries, the simple answer used to be an intelligent relay, like the Blue Sea ACR. With a lithium camper battery and a lead acid starter, the economic answer used to be the AMP-L-Start, but they may have gone out of business. There seem to be some still in stock. The...