Never really understood the hoopla of fancy drawer sliders except for when sliding it from inside to outside of rig. When inside and have option of designing your own setup.. just put it at damn floor level and use good ol' appliance sliders and save hundreds of dollars. Those sliders are so...
My ambo was delivered without the truck but was fortunate enough to also get in the purchase all the mounts that were once bolted to the truck chassis to mount the ambo with including large rubber donuts like yours. Did get verified in advance that the Freightliner chassis it was on has same...
Never assume.... for ********** and grins now repeat with 10 gauge at length your arrangement would require. Or use 12 gauge as short as you can get it as a temporary test to see what results are.
the key is "sloshing weight" which can be reduced to no sloshing, but chi-town has a point still.. hybrid might be wiser? Besides lifting 5gal cans to roof for heating is quit a task actually, but pumping it out of containers carried down lower, up to fill the empty solar PVC pipe on the...
Not a bad idea...... and unlike a jack to the ground... could be potentially very compact since you could just jack to bracket mounted between the chassis to the habitat. That being said though..... if you do NOT go to ground; though you can make it level.... you may still be little rocky in...
This looks interesting enough to have in the kit for many folk. Appears there are various ones for different applications
https://www.amazon.com/Colby-Valve-Ultimate-Replacement-System/dp/B0793Y3J4S/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YJ091QV1SFTMQQSMFYTJ
Actually... there are plenty others thinking like yourself on this. Am thinking of going pretty much the same though I may go only with a Full size mattress. I'm thin and don't move much while sleeping and my GF (sorta?) is small thin-ishs woman so Full should do and leave little more space...
old thread ....... has anyone else done cab shocks.... or better yet upfitted OEM cab shocks? My truck (in avitar) has cab air shocks. (presently disabled) I have to rebuild the system and wonder it would be better/least costly to just retrofit. air pump already exists.
Back to the future Overland ambo/LMTV truck.
got kitchen parts. See https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/kitchen-kit-chuck-box.21268/post-2500517
Chuck Box..... Kitchen
well... mine (just arrived) is vintage.... not like the awesome sturdy ones in here with bells and whistles. Well be doing faux cabin look inside camper (Ambulance box mounted to truck in my avitar) so this works for me both inside and outside.
it is a vintage "Trail...
can you please take detailed shots of the box's suspension system. I assume solid mount in back and captured springs in front. I need to do something like this on my remount to truck in my avatar
Not necessarily. If the air intake is up high you get less dust. Tis why most air intakes for this purpose are top face of camper or even roof of camper. Air is less dusty higher up you go.
Found it. Luckly (but the again.... rather everyone be more active) .... he had only started two threads... this one and the one other. If it had been someone like yourself.... combing thru all their started threads would take forever to find the right one.
Anyway...... if anyone is...
don't assume manufactures are just cutting cost with lower grade bolts. there is differences in strengths from different forces. In some places a lower grade is better cause they bend and weaken.. but do not SNAP off without warning/need of a stress gauge to let you know it is about to happen...
Pressurizing is done to keep "road dust" out of camper box when driving. Some parts of the world this is a must. You start with a clean camper inside and when you get to your destination and open the door..... there is layer of dust everywhere inside the camper. Pressurizing it helps small...
??? well that answer helped the archival of information lol.... IF anyone has an idea on where/what the other thread is would certainly appreciate a link.
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