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Side note, when your truck arrives, you will want to change and flush ALL fluids - transmission, transfer case, diffs, etc., and change all filters. (Look for bronze filings in the differentials.) When you do, save all of the filters and take to your local auto parts shop. They will not have...

When I look at the mess that is my wiring, elegant is good. ;)

"This isn't really two inverters. It's one inverter that feeds the mains side of the house inverter, which is presumably really just a 120/240V powered battery charger/maintainer inside that happens to have another inverter connected to the battery." Duh! Thank you. That makes a LOT of sense...

AEON claim to be doing this on their new van. Partly, perhaps, as a way to charge a 24v battery. Bank. But it seems to me that the losses of two inverters must be serious. I defer to those who actually know what they are talking about.

Methinks we are mixing several things here: -- Copper to aluminum joins require attention. I used Noalox - wish I had known about the tinned connectors; would have been even nicer. -- Never seen BMS balance wires fused. As noted, most are so small that they act like fusible links. The folks in...

Know nothing about Canada, but recommend asking Rob Pickering. http://terryleeenterprises.com/ Hans is pricy, but he is in Canada: https://unimogcanada.com/ And finally, are you SURE you want a Unimog? ;) And finally, finally, these folk are worth their weigh in motor oil...

Believe the cells to be these - very commonly used. But I will be sure to check for corrosion. Like the zinc plated connectors - could have easily used them. https://evlithium.com/hot-lithium-battery/946.html

Do you know of any prismatic cell that does not have an aluminum to copper join? Most batteries use stainless steel bus bars, but the problem is that they loosen with time. And, in my case, I would need two different lengths. I don't know of any lithium iron battery manufacturer that fuses...

Having had a Natures Head and now a C-Head, much prefer the C-Head for ease of dumping, especially with narrow doors. If you have a wet bath, shoot me a note and I will send you photos of a better way to seal the C-Head.

Battery terminals, like most prismatic cells, are aluminum. The copper/aluminum join is treated with Noalox. The BMS wires are tiny and not fused. They do not carry any current. The whole battery is fused at the main disconnect. The internal leads are under 24 inches. (FWIW, I don't know of any...

B2B can't hurt, but you are never going to drive long enough to need to really worry about a multi-stage charge. Proper profile is, however, critical for solar or shore power.

Not sure I would bother with a B2B if using gel batteries.

I use REDARC - small and no fan needed. Sterling Power also make units that will do 24v - more options in size and programming.

Can you go see Rob Pickering in La Junta? His folks mount these all day long. http://terryleeenterprises.com/

Simply buy an appropriate shore charger or install a decently sized inverter/charger. I use a 2kw Magnum unit - has a 90A charger. (The Magnum allows you to dial back its AC draw from 30A down to10A, so you don't pop fuses.) N.B. If your camper is sitting in storage, beware of overcharging...

Just start a thread with "Odessey" in the title; something like "Best Charging Practices for Odessey Battery." (Or, if you prefer, "My Odessey battery died, again!") I have never owned one of these beasts, but there are several folks here who have, with greater or lesser success.

Mine were two-piece rims and the 40 bolts were intended to hold the wheel together. First, they came loose, and were replaced. Then ten bolts snapped off at speed. Not a lot of fun driving with a blazing tire. Hopefully, they are doing better now.

FWIW: Consult with the Odessey gurus on this forum. IIRC, they are notorious for wanting a high charge voltage and Toyotas are notorious for only charging at about 13.9v - a death sentence. (Get out your multi-meter and check.) YMMV, but ask the question. You really can't have too many amps...

From painful experience, I would add another reason - WHEN, not if, when some of the wiring fails or has to be modified, you want it to be accessible. But if you must run everything in conduit, remember to leave a spare fish line in with the wiring.

Watch the bolts on Stazworks wheels - they can break or loosen and lead to sudden deflation. Those look bigger than those I had and, hopefully, you will not have a problem. But check them religiously until you are sure.