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The question is that whether the ACR will work, but whether you will charge your battery. The voltages are fine for the ACR, the question is whether the Toyota gets to and sustains a voltage over 14v for long enough to charge a large, deep cycle battery.

More likely an error wiring the switch. N.B. Take a close look at the voltages of you Toyota. Some Toyotas only go up to around 13.9v and that is too low for most AGM and FLA batteries. (One reason why there are aftermarket voltage adjusters for Toyotas and why many Toyota owners use a B2B...

You don't need the switch, but I used to like having a tell tale on the dash, just to let me know what was happening.

FWIW Department: The National Luna "system" isn't much of a system. For reasons that have been beaten into the ground on this forum, a voltmeter on your second battery doesn't really tell you much. (A bit like trying to guess the contents of your fuel tank by looking at the speedometer.) You...

It is purely anecdotal, but some on this forum have reported National Luna failures. Can you take it to, ideally, a National Luna dealer, or, alternatively, a good auto electrics shop? As noted above, it is not hard to troubleshoot. With the engine on, the voltage on both sides of the relay...

Surprises me, as I have always gotten at least an answering machine when I screwed up and didn't track the dateline and time zones. E-mails have been answered with 48 hours. As with any of these things, YMMV.

I'm not sure I fully understand what you are trying to do, so I would again recommend that you contact RECARC directly. Phone if you want instant gratification. International calls are not that expensive and you will get a live technician on the line, not a call center. They even post the local...

As a certified REDARC phanboi, I will offer this: https://redarcelectronics.com/pages/contact I suspect that they will be prompt.

The key elements are: -- The charging voltage of your Tundra and the type of battery you want to use. If your battery is a lead acid that wants over 14v and your Tundra runs at over 14v, then you might be better off with a relay based system and a separate solar controller. -- If your Tundra...

Wouldn't call it a gimmick, but unlike adding a separate solar controller, the total output is still only 40A. The only thing that changes is the source of power, not the amount. The good news is that solar will take load off of your alternator (at least the REDARC prioritizes solar, don't know...

I am using the 40A model. Input is 24v from the alternator, output is 12v to the AGM camper battery. Also have a 160w solar panel attached. Works as advertised. Advantages are: -- Small size -- Dust sealed -- No fan required -- Very aggressive charge voltages for lead acid -- Dual input...

This goes to one of my pet peeves - too many oversimplified absolutes. There are many ways to do this, including manual switches, relays, and chargers. The method that is best for your application will depend on many different factors, including: -- The voltage of your vehicle's charging...

Nah! We're just lazy and like to pretend we're cool by using arcane terms. Think of it as a secret handshake! ;-)

That is a good idea, subject to all of the usual caveats, do you really need a B2B, etc. In may former case, the camper batteries, 600Ah of AGM, were below the truck at the back, fully exposed to the weather. Starter batteries were under the hood. Chevrolet applied temperature compensation to...

Hmmm. Are you proposing to plug the output of your solar controller into the input of the B2B? That's novel. But it might be interesting if your solar controller's profile was not very good.

This may be the most useful comment here for those of us with larger battery banks who are considering lithium. I had suspected, and postulated, that a B2B might get a whole new lease on life with lithium, not as a voltage booster, as is usually the case with lead acid, but as a voltage reducer...

AMEN! (Now, if I had stock in CTEK, Sterling, or REDARC … :D )

In an all electric camper with diesel heat we find that our maximum overnight draw is about 135Ah. Your numbers look very high. This may help: https://cookfb.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/plan-electrical-system.pdf

I don't have the red light, but would love to know the switch positions. Is the ABS normally on, which I would suspect, or is it only on when the switch is engaged and the yellow light is on?

This interests me as well. My previous camper, a Tiger, had an external grey tank and it never froze. The valve froze, but not the tank. I would think that for all but the very coldest weather a hot shower and perhaps a shot of anti-freeze might be all you need. New camper has an internal grey...