Yup. Kinda sad really. You could spread vertically with it with the jack in the upright position.....but yeah....
I don't really see many vehicles these days that can even be jacked on the perimeter really.
I'm pretty happy with my good ol' Toyota bottle jack these days. It's time to add a...
He has some slider protection, but he kept them high and tight for clearance.
I just don't like using the 60" hi-lift jacks. Personally I think they just get too high and too unstable to be of much use. That is the root issue with having to lift from the perimeter of the vehicle, especially a...
This was the pickle....
The truck had gotten the front end up the Soup Bowl obstacle on the Rubicon Trail before the rear end slid slideways and wedged a large fin of rock right inbetween the rear driveshaft, tire, and axle tube. The truck couldn't be pulled forward with the rear axle hooked...
I can agree with most of that. I use a $20-40 Toyota bottle jack.....
I don't agree that the hi-lift can do everything a bottle jack can do however. I'll round up some pics from the rubicon trip this evening and post something up. A hi-lift was a total strike out. We had more than one on the...
The ARB unit would pull posts or push things away from the jack base? ( though I am not sure if the hydraulics will work laying over, which is an interesting tech question or test for the owners)
I didn't mention weight in my post? I mentioned size. A 48-60" hi-lift jack is just cumbersome to...
Other than being able to 'pull' with the hi-lift, what other uses are you envisioning for the hi-lift vs ARB?
Personally, I find both designs limiting since you can really only lift from the perimeter of the vehicle. I find myself needing to lift from under the vehicle a lot more. With the...
That is my biggest complaint with the worm drive winches.
I don't think many people need to do 'speed recoveries' but the worm drive winches are almost dangerously slow. I have been in a situation more than once with them where if you are trying to help with the vehicle it can lurch forward...
Re-rig it to the next anchor or position?
It is easy to shorten a winch extension if you need to also. You can rig it so both pulleys basically almost hit the bumper.
This can be nice if you need to generate a lot of force close in to the vehicle when the anchor is rather close or you are...
Now that everyone seems to have the general idea.
Here is a really good rigging system to have in your back pocket for when double lining isn't enough
This is the most pull force you can generate with only two snatch blocks.
As I said, you can do this with a Boatswain chair and simple rigging to test it.
In simple terms, it is all about force over distance.
Once the working end of the line is attached back to the force generator it isn't redirection anymore, it becomes mechanical advantage.
It is no longer a 1:1...
That would be redirection, not mechanical advantage.
If you are the 100lb object providing the force you gain mechanical advantage.
If you are NOT the 100lb object providing the force you loose your mechanical advantage.
You can easily demonstrate this with a Boatswain Seat and some simple...
Nope.
A single pulley will cut your load in half IF the working end of the line is attached back to the vehicle.
This gives you a 2:1 mechanical advantage
No
By adding a single pulley AND connecting the line back to the vehicle, you cut the force required in HALF.
For every 1 foot of movement ( either vehicle toward the anchor or the load towards you, the winch will be spooling 2 feet of cable.
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