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Just think about tongue weight. Ive seen some realy cool ideas but wholly cow batman the tongue weight really got heavy fast.

The red strip on the battery is just a heavy rubber two sided tape, with a red strip of plastic on it. I wanted a flexible cover over the battery posts to prevent contact with the ammo box lid if a bad bump knocked things loose. The battery is actually held in place via double stick tape side...

The fuse block is next to the battery you can see the two screw heads in the side of the ammo box that hold the fuse box in place. After a season of use I plan on adding some simple zip tie retainers to help keep wires neat. But out side of that its done everything we wanted.

The wires on the left side are actually three coiled lines with capped plugs. One is the solar harness which gets pulled out (2ft long) panels have about 5ft cord length on them. The other two one is a low power source for the tent LEDs which pull about .6 amps when both lights are on at full...

My set up

Not sure what the inverter is for? I have a tiny travel inverter we use for the lap top. On rare occasions. I think its 150watt. Very small it fits in the glove box with cables. Lol This is my fuse block...

If your vehicle has a 7 pin you could simply set up a power feed that feeds juice to the solar in side of the controller when you plug the trailer into the car. The controllers have a charging / battery management logic, bulk, float etc charging based on the battery level. So by feeding juice...

As for vehicle charging on the go. These little solar chargers dont care what the power source is all they know is they are getting voltage. If you tied a feed from the car to the controller it would simply manage your battery charging as if the solar panels were plugged in.

I used 12 guage its far plenty for 20amp or less stuff. As a side note. My house system sits on 12 gauge standard harnesses and have a restricted limit of 16 285watt panels with micro inverters per 12 guage harness. The big battery shut off switch is nice but since I set up with the controller...

Yes and its worse today with the texting and driving. Which is why I sadly agree that all new vehicles should have the eyesight systems and lane assist and self stopping capability. Rear end accidents would be eliminated, pedestrian and cyclist accidents would be reduced. Most recent bad crash...

Old video its a Nissan unibody SUV in Russia being obliterated by a Kenworth probably hauling 80,000 lbs. Driver was nearly in the grave long before he spun across into oncoming traffic. The other guy spinning across into you is a big threat that most drivers never consider, and oddly very few...

Group 27 battery, 80watt panel or two 40s. A simple solar charger/ controller and a fuse box. If you add a fridge chances are all you need to do is upgrade the battery, and if you want get a fancy controller. But chances are after learning the use and needs you'll only feel like added battery...

Im really happy how mine has turned out and the performance of the system. My wife thinks shes livin large with our LED lit tent and charging hub for devices. This and the Mr Buddy heater basically eliminated 90% of her complaints

Yep. I think this design is more due to the commercial application where these units are used by the 100's. Vs being used as cheap small power units on trailers.

The negative to solar. They produce power even if you dont need it. 250watt panel is big. Heck I have 285s on my house! You can always add a panel but even 80watts would be excessive for what it sounds like you'll need.

The sheet metal on new cars is pretty thin light stuff. My 2010 subaru dents really easily. The only thing that matters is the cage structure hidden under the flimsy sheet metal or aluminum skins these days. The door frame A pillars on these trucks seem to all crush pretty easily compared to...

I also agree that battery size and panel size are related. Last summer we spent 6 days Eastern Sierras the little 18amp hour battery and two 10watt panels which never really had an ideal sunny spot all day kept two cell phones charged, a go pro, and I pad along with LED lighting supported all...

These systems are closed loop in the sense that you dont ground them. I used a ground bar to tie all the neg wires back to the neg feed on the output side of the controller. The pos side feeds the small fuse block. If you ground it to the trailer you either fry the controller, blow a fuse or...

My basic details 20amp controller, 18amp hr deep cycle battery, 6 fuse box, small ground bar. All of that is mounted in my 50 call ammo box bolted to the trailer. The two Renogy 10watt panels I stow in boxes in the tounge box and set out in camp. I used the plugs the panels came with, removed...

Thats what my need was. Though I knew fridge was never going to be an add on. My controller is a $30 amazon 20 amp max in or out controller. These were primarily designed for solar parking lot lighting. Where all the guts are mounted in a box on the pole, and self regulating etc. I've been...