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I have a Max axe tool, 7 in one with a fiberglass handle. It is 15 plus years old and I have literally beaten the snot out of it. No problems. The handle on mine has a slight texture and is also not as slick as wood.

No pics of it. Just moved the outer sheath clamp and redrilled two holes for the u-clamp each side. I am guessing that I moved the clamps about 1/2". This put the outer cable sheath far enough back to work without applying drag on the brakes. You can also get some adjusting room by loosening...

Another good starter mobile radio is the Yaesu FT2800. Mil spec standards built and 65 watts power. Just got a 2800, magnetic antennae, shipped to my door from Ham City for $162.

Keep an eye on the timing chain covers for the 22 series motors. When the chain gets old, it gets loose and the original plastic guide wears out-the chain wears a groove into the cover. If not a hole or crack. The newer replacement guides should be metal.

Should be some pics in here. Mine would be better if more vertical. But, I did not want them in the way of the tailgate area. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22716

I had to mod the cables slightly but it is all there and works great.

My local Walmart carries the water jugs. They sell filtered water and the jugs near the soda dept.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=459180 There is more usefull info here on the Toyotas. I would suggest reading through this faq to learn about them. In 1986-Toyota went to the IFS front end. Late 1985 was the first years for EFI. 22R is a carbed motor, 22RE is the EFI motor...

Roadkill, you are correct about overfilling the axle. Still, probably not worth the effort to keep the 35.

Pulling the pinion is not a good idea. It helps to "sling" oil into the axle tubes and therefore into the outer bearing areas.

I have heard that about Zolatone. I believe I will use the Hippoliner instead. Thanks.

CJ2 exhaust-not M38 Radio appears to be from the 60's.

Those are 33x12.50's on the trailer, spare is a 7.00x16 old school rim. The rubber flares on the fenders are off a CJ rear flare. Spare tire winch is off a 90something Dodge Ram pickup. SOA is simply flip the axle, swap the sides for the ubolt plates so the shocks still work. Had to remount...

The pics in here might give you some ideas. I used 1x1x.095 tube for the top frame, and 3/4x3/4 for the rack. The skin is 16 ga. steel. Plan on some type of lift struts to assist with the weight. McMaster Carr sells lots of different ones, around $25 ea. I used the 150#, but could not get...

It will be mostly white probably. Thinking between Zolatone paint that looks like white marble, or a white tinted bedliner type. Zolatone is the "trunk paint" that was used in most car trunk interiors in the 60's. Both paints have a light texture to them. The Zolatone will have to be sprayed...

Made lots of progress in the 2-1/2 months I have owned the trailer. Pretty much done for now except for paint. Not decided yet on that. http://tumblwd.smugmug.com/gallery/6324430_gy6xt#398794705_jaFb4

Straight liquid dish soap works well as a lube. Messy, but works.

I wound up using some 4" butt hinges from the local steel supplier. Very heavy duty. I welded some 1" flatbar to one side of the hinge to get the distance I needed to bolt through the tub side. I used a 1x2 tube as a spacer to get the hinge flat below the rail.

Mine is a 12" bobbed bed pickup. And I had the name Tumbleweed since I was 17, had a cross country motorcycle race and crashed into a hidden ditch that was 3' deep in Tumbleweeds. Pulled stickers out for months.

My 85 mallcrawler. Too many mods to list, but the 224.1 crawl ratio can be nice. Due to the armor, only got one quarter sized dent on the flop-tire lug caught the lip on the front fender.