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I got the other windows glued in and the skin is almost complete.

Also battery powered? No way. You already have a battery on the truck. That is just one more thing to keep up with

Put the switch inside an external storage compartment?

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50

I don't like the remote control lights. Had them in a truck I built and the remote was always finicky or needed batteries. That was when you could find the remote

Why not just wire in a switch nearby? Better yet a dimmer so as not to melt faces with super bright light under an awning.

I've always found that a usable vehicle will keep you motivated more to than a disabled one. Try to keep downtime to a minimum. My build is basically from scratch and will probably never be "done" so I am currently pushing towards just being roadworthy. Details can come later

They have a few shorter options. I was a bit skeptical until I had them in my hands but they are very robust looking. I've read a number of accounts of them working well on trucks with a similar weight as mine so I'm fairly confident. They are also cheap enough that I am willing to gamble on...

I ordered some springs today for the rear suspension. Coil Spring Specialties here in the US had something off the shelf that should be just about right. Cheap enough to not worry that much about them either. If I need to change the rate at a later time, it won't cost an arm and a leg. The...

That is what I was thinking. They sell the converter and display too. You could probably wire several sensors through a selector switch to display on one display

basic thermocouples and displays or automotive gauges installed to read those areas. Mcmaster has tons of temperature monitoring equipment.

I glued in some windows today. I had the windows fabricated by a local glass shop. They are fixed, tempered, double pane units. Glued in place with SIKA 255FC. At this point I am thinking I should add more windows to the rear section of wall that is blank now. What does everyone think?

I see what you're getting at but I don't think it works like that. From what I know, you should only apply it over rust. It can prevent paint from sticking to bare metal otherwise.

Sounds like good customer service. Still seems like people should just leave their rotopax in the garage when they aren't on a trip. Letting it bake in the sun everyday isn't good for most things.

I agree. Any coater worth a damn would only coat a properly prepped surface. A partial strip and recoat makes no sense to me. I would say that applying rust converter to clean metal is pointless because for it to work, it requires rust to be present.

I would start with contacting a local powder coater and see how much they will charge then go from there. Well the powder didn't hold up either :)

I machined and fabbed up the fuel tank mounts and straps then mounted the tank. One step closer every day...... Next up I have to finish the exhaust and the piping to the engine air filter box from the turbo...

Definitely interested as well. My camper will need something but I've never seen something up close to know how it's been done. I understand that Alaskan campers use pirelli webbing

Thanks. Yeah I'm thinking I'll incorporate a plate into the straps that will hang the tank. Swing by any time

Got started building the front subframe that will carry the fuel tank and water tank. I will be a flat bed on top for now but later it will be a large double ended storage box that will fill the void under the camper box. 19" of ground clearance to the fuel tank. 50 gallons of fuel.