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Good info man! Thanks!

Made some progress on redoing the 4 link today. I set the axle at a 120" wheelbase and started playing around on the 4 link calculator. Ended up with about 80% anti squat with this setup. If anyone has any input on spring rates I would love to hear it.

If I went with 4.10 gears, 1800rpm would be 69mph. That seems doable too. I don't imagine needing to go faster than that.

Here are the Allison ratios 3.10 1.81 1.41 1.00 0.71 No plans to tow much at all but there will be some mountain driving and plenty of offroad

Thanks! I am second guessing myself on the gearing department though. I haven't bought any gears but does anyone think that 3.73 is too tall for a 37" tire?

If this is already on here somewhere please direct me there. I searched and didn't find what I was looking for. I would like to get an idea of real world MPG numbers with different rigs. I know it can vary greatly but Please include truck, engine, transmission, final drive ratio, tire size...

Yeah facebook changes the links occasionally I guess. Best to just go to the photo album on FB https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.730697497040147.1073741866.411780185598548&type=1&l=b392444240

Thanks!

I've made some progress lately. I got most of one side skinned then I flipped the camper over to skin the bottom of the bed area. I've been making cap rails for all the corners where pieces of the skin come together. Makes for a "soft" edge. I also bought a set of hummer wheels and tires...

I like your style! Personally I would look for a Chevy and a drop in camper. Or possibly a 4wd van that is set up to camp.

Seems like using a plate exchanger for your hot water will require the espar to be running for you to have hot water. If you use a marine hot water tank, you can run the espar once and have hot water for a day or two. A simple reservoir in line before the espar will add enough capacity.

Ahhh... ok. Done that way, when the valve is open and espar running, that puts the engine in parallel with the camper's heating loop. Or do you put a valve on the camper loop too and use the espar to only heat one circuit at a time? I suppose you could heat both loops at the same time but that...

He mentioned bypassing the Espar when it's off.

Am I reading your description correctly? Seems like bypassing the Espar would require a 2nd valve and a bypass. Also is bypassing the Espar when it's not running necessary? Seems like coolant can just flow through it

My other option is to fabricate one from aluminum just like the rest of the camper but then I don't have the glass to see through. I have also considered having another insulated glass panel made like I did for the side portal windows. If I fabbed the framework for it in such a way as to glue...

I'm not doubting the potential for leaks or condensation at all. I just know that I want one over the bed because I want to be able to look at the sky while laying in bed and I want air flow across the bed.

I am leaning towards a clear boat hatch. Possible 2 of them side by side above the bed. The prices on those double glazed marine units that are as big as two standard marine hatches are really high!! We will have a roof vent fan on the high part of the ceiling too so hopefully that will help...

I was considering a marine hatch too but yeah this is going over the bed.

I am looking for a large roof escape hatch, preferably with a clear lid. I found pics of one by Heki but I read that they are not reliable and break plus the pricetag is pretty high. I don't mind the high price if it will be durable. What do you folks recommend?

Who makes that skylight/roof vent you have there?