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The clutch pressure plate on the old models actual said KX125D on it. I did the same thing to mine.

Your oil level should be about 60% up the body. So at ride height the piston will be in the oil. You want the piston in the oil to provide damping. You need the most damping from ride height to bump. Ok course once you start to push them, the oil turns to foam and it doesn't matter where in...

There are valving tricks you can't due on an emulsion shock due to cavitation. For the time being, mount them body down. That way the oil will be where you need it most.

Reservoirs are always worth it.

Are you not using the factory heat exchanger for oil? I love how compact those Deutsch connectors are. If I didn't have a lifetime supply of weather packs those would be the way to go.

The KLX seat is downright luxurious compared to a stock KTM saddle. I call it the vinyl wrapped 2X4 ass wedge. It got replaced before the first ride.

Excellent choice! I put a lot of miles on my 99 KLX300. The most reliable bike I have ever owned, I beat on that thing and neglected it's maintenance. It just kept on ticking. The best way to protect the radiators is an Acerbis desert tank. For long trips you're going to want a better seat.

You need the stuff we put on helmet face shields.

It was dirty but welded ok. I soaked it in the purple degreaser stuff for a few hours. Let it dry for a couple days then hit it with a torch to sweat it before welding it up. Still bubbled a little but not bad. I don't think you can ever get all the oil out of cast.

I went gull log manifold, it needed to be way shorter to clear the hood.

Have you checked the bushings and the links on the sway bar to make sure everything is good? If those are good, bigger shocks, better sway bar. Then air the bags up in the rear. Be aware, those bags hard mounted like that are probably limiting your down travel in the rear. Articulate it hard...

If you are going to taller tires you can go with a little more offset and still have a decent scrub radius. Offset really doesn't effect turning radius unless your tire is now rubbing on something. Running more offset will make the tires swing more and potentially hit the firewall or bumper...

Tested singularly yes, but the whole thing changes in a frame construction. As noted above the T100 frames are tanks. In addition to being boxed they have internal bulkheads. The cabs are also very sturdy, lot's of places in the A and B pillars are 3 layers of sheetmetal thick.

If you put hiems in the top, being a little out of alignment wouldn't matter. Use ones with clutchs and they will stop when they top out.

I saw some that looked almost like camper jacks. They may have been linear actuators. Rigidly mounted in the corners they would be quite stable. This would allow a full length strip around the top to be screwed on. Put a bulb seal on it and it would be very weather tight. Put another seal at the...

With the slides on the outside like that won't you have a hard time sealing around them when it's up? The beauty of the internal lift poles is that they leave a nice unbroken top lip for bulb seals to contact.

T100 diff's like to break axles. But you probably don't drive like that guy LOL.....

That^^^^^^^^ I have a T100 axle sitting on the side of the shop. I got it to replace the giant POS in the GF's Colorado. While it has a better bearing set-up, they are not all that big.

An axle out of and older Chevy fullsize would be similar in width and let you keep the same lug pattern. Then a set of airbags and you are set. Edit: a newer Tundra axle is beefy and only a little wider. The extra width might come in handy for the camper, give you a little extra room.

They don't really need GP's till it' below freezing. I have started mine at 6* without GP's. It wasn't happy but it did it.