City_Rider
Adventurer
Jealous of the differentials - very cool rigs. That 5VZ-FE is super clean.
'10 Tundra CrewMax
- Thread starter zidaro
- Start date
Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
Don't forget the cold and weather while working outside....
Great work and sharing A!
James
zidaro
Explorer
Don't forget the cold and weather while working outside....
Great work and sharing A!
James
Ha! no kidding. I'm always jealous of the socal and Az guys and their endless summers that allow wrenching all year long.
Notice the ice patches and muddy areas just under my rear axle. and then there is today, nice enough but i am at work next 24hrs and when i get off i have 2 days before the storm of the century lands and completely obliterates my driveway and wind + snow = snow blown into places you don't want snow. then sun comes out and your under your truck with incessant dripping always on your forehead while wrenching!!!! Damn this place.
J/K, i absolutely LOVE this place!!!!! and all the minor complications that come with it are easily outweighed by the beauty and solitude so easily found just outside my door.
my backyard :drool:
bkg
Explorer
Ha! no kidding. I'm always jealous of the socal and Az guys and their endless summers that allow wrenching all year long.
Notice the ice patches and muddy areas just under my rear axle. and then there is today, nice enough but i am at work next 24hrs and when i get off i have 2 days before the storm of the century lands and completely obliterates my driveway and wind + snow = snow blown into places you don't want snow. then sun comes out and your under your truck with incessant dripping always on your forehead while wrenching!!!! Damn this place.
J/K, i absolutely LOVE this place!!!!! and all the minor complications that come with it are easily outweighed by the beauty and solitude so easily found just outside my door.
my backyard :drool:
adopt me, please.
zidaro
Explorer
wrapping up the rear!
for break in i used lesser expensive DINO based oil as demanded by Auburn and confirmed by lots of people that have tried to run synthetics in a Auburn LS axle. Toyota requests API GL5. StaLube satisfies all. Auburn LS additive added as well. 500 miles later ill change out to Lucas
DS at full droop
PS at full droop. sexy shock boots HAHA
rear lines
for break in i used lesser expensive DINO based oil as demanded by Auburn and confirmed by lots of people that have tried to run synthetics in a Auburn LS axle. Toyota requests API GL5. StaLube satisfies all. Auburn LS additive added as well. 500 miles later ill change out to Lucas
DS at full droop
PS at full droop. sexy shock boots HAHA
rear lines
zidaro
Explorer
front diff. up in its home, lines and hoses secured
notice the tiedown between the lower a-arms. i used this to put tension on the arms and pull them down out of the way for CV install. it also helps having them lower when reinstalling the coil overs.
Clean and lube up the seals at the spindle and at the diff. for CV insertion
do the same on the CV
with the spindle supported on my knee and out of the direct path of the CV, insert CV into output splines on third
then slip Spindle over CV and into hub splines
i found placing the spindle nut on was a good thing to keep CV in spindle when setting the C-clip
OK, the potential hard part. The CV has a c-clip on the inner splines that insert into the output shaft of the third. to fully seat the CV into the third you must push the clip into the splines.
Technique is to set the CV in place as above photo, then lift the Spindle and CV out away from the vehicle a little, then FORCIBLY thrust/shove the spindle/CV inwards jamming the inner CV shaft into the splines. Goes easy on or it takes a few. I had both.
This is what it will look like once seated.- inner CV housing flush against third.
once CV is in and seated, line up the lower ball joint and bolt it down. #221 of torque and a little thread lock
then spindle nut, lock nut and cotter. #249 torque on this one
coil over goes in now, before the steering arm. don't forget the cotter on the steering arm nut
Add synthetic API GL5 diff fluid and check all your work. i used Mobil 1
All wrapped up
Ready to get a little test drive on after i bleed the brakes.
notice the tiedown between the lower a-arms. i used this to put tension on the arms and pull them down out of the way for CV install. it also helps having them lower when reinstalling the coil overs.
Clean and lube up the seals at the spindle and at the diff. for CV insertion
do the same on the CV
with the spindle supported on my knee and out of the direct path of the CV, insert CV into output splines on third
then slip Spindle over CV and into hub splines
i found placing the spindle nut on was a good thing to keep CV in spindle when setting the C-clip
OK, the potential hard part. The CV has a c-clip on the inner splines that insert into the output shaft of the third. to fully seat the CV into the third you must push the clip into the splines.
Technique is to set the CV in place as above photo, then lift the Spindle and CV out away from the vehicle a little, then FORCIBLY thrust/shove the spindle/CV inwards jamming the inner CV shaft into the splines. Goes easy on or it takes a few. I had both.
This is what it will look like once seated.- inner CV housing flush against third.
once CV is in and seated, line up the lower ball joint and bolt it down. #221 of torque and a little thread lock
then spindle nut, lock nut and cotter. #249 torque on this one
coil over goes in now, before the steering arm. don't forget the cotter on the steering arm nut
Add synthetic API GL5 diff fluid and check all your work. i used Mobil 1
All wrapped up
Ready to get a little test drive on after i bleed the brakes.
zidaro
Explorer
neither had i, usually i have to sit on the rotor to get the coil in. this works much better and i didn't feel like an idiot doing it.
zidaro
Explorer
OK. I changed out all the rubber lines to SS in the brake system....
BRAKE BLEEDING a 2010 Tundra
We have ABS and a 4line, each caliper independent, system off the booster.
looked all over the internets. no one consensus on how it should be done. some like pressure bleeders, some vacuum is the only way it can be done, some say gravity, some say the truck running, or off, or dealer only....................... crap it was a waste of my time. I even saw Toyota Service Manual copied online and they had different info on each.
Rule 1. never let master fluid get low.
Rule 2. see above
Rule 3. don't depress pedal to floor when releasing line pressure thru bleeder.
Rule 4. depress pedal with short rapid strokes
Rule 5. Close bleeder before releasing pedal ALWAYS
How i did it and it worked-
2 person job- driver/pumper, bleeder.
8mm open end wrench for rear calipers, fronts take a 10mm. 2 pints dot5 brake fluid. clear vinyl hose ~2' to attach to bleeder nipple and routed to a catch bottle.
Ignition key on, but don't start. This is supposed to allow the brake booster to run??? i never heard anything. but i did it.
Pick a corner and start there, doesn't matter.
Have driver pump pedal, we did 6 pumps, then hold pedal down.
release pressure at bleeder on caliper of choice, only a 1/8" turn required.
have driver stop pedal depression before hitting end of stroke (floor) and close bleeder at this moment. (you will have to communicate well. maybe don't use your wife if you know what I'm saying :Wow1: )
repeat pump/bleed process till no air bubbles are released from bleeder and clean fluid is coming out
move on to next caliper x3.
recheck master resi. fluid at each caliper, or more often, so you don't blow it.
thats it. It worked perfect with a nice firm pedal for me.
BRAKE BLEEDING a 2010 Tundra
We have ABS and a 4line, each caliper independent, system off the booster.
looked all over the internets. no one consensus on how it should be done. some like pressure bleeders, some vacuum is the only way it can be done, some say gravity, some say the truck running, or off, or dealer only....................... crap it was a waste of my time. I even saw Toyota Service Manual copied online and they had different info on each.
Rule 1. never let master fluid get low.
Rule 2. see above
Rule 3. don't depress pedal to floor when releasing line pressure thru bleeder.
Rule 4. depress pedal with short rapid strokes
Rule 5. Close bleeder before releasing pedal ALWAYS
How i did it and it worked-
2 person job- driver/pumper, bleeder.
8mm open end wrench for rear calipers, fronts take a 10mm. 2 pints dot5 brake fluid. clear vinyl hose ~2' to attach to bleeder nipple and routed to a catch bottle.
Ignition key on, but don't start. This is supposed to allow the brake booster to run??? i never heard anything. but i did it.
Pick a corner and start there, doesn't matter.
Have driver pump pedal, we did 6 pumps, then hold pedal down.
release pressure at bleeder on caliper of choice, only a 1/8" turn required.
have driver stop pedal depression before hitting end of stroke (floor) and close bleeder at this moment. (you will have to communicate well. maybe don't use your wife if you know what I'm saying :Wow1: )
repeat pump/bleed process till no air bubbles are released from bleeder and clean fluid is coming out
move on to next caliper x3.
recheck master resi. fluid at each caliper, or more often, so you don't blow it.
thats it. It worked perfect with a nice firm pedal for me.
zidaro
Explorer
TEST DRIVE!!!!!
ABS warning light was on in driveway
Turned out of spot it was parked in for the job and heard a couple nasty pops from rear end.
Light went out within 20' of driving and once the oil in the rear diff. had distributed itself and permeated the Auburn it was silent and smooth as butter.
Drove up to Main Lodge Mammoth Mtn. (winding road for 4 miles) to drop the kid off for ski PE, then back down.
Lower gearing seems nicely appropriate, hard to tell this soon.
All is working great so far. :wings:
More updates as break in continues!!!!!!!
Cant wait to try out some fire road power slides and were forecasted to get +4' of snow in next 3 days so that ought to give me a sense of traction advantages with the Limited Slip.
ABS warning light was on in driveway
Turned out of spot it was parked in for the job and heard a couple nasty pops from rear end.
Light went out within 20' of driving and once the oil in the rear diff. had distributed itself and permeated the Auburn it was silent and smooth as butter.
Drove up to Main Lodge Mammoth Mtn. (winding road for 4 miles) to drop the kid off for ski PE, then back down.
Lower gearing seems nicely appropriate, hard to tell this soon.
All is working great so far. :wings:
More updates as break in continues!!!!!!!
Cant wait to try out some fire road power slides and were forecasted to get +4' of snow in next 3 days so that ought to give me a sense of traction advantages with the Limited Slip.