'10 Tundra CrewMax

[zidaro]

Daystar Airbag Cradles Flipped using oversized 8" bags

Freeing the baggage!!!

As it was:

full droop, bag stretched and limiting the cycle. not to mention possible damage to bag, though i have aired it out without issue on occasion :jumping:

got inspired to find out what all the rage is.
been running long travel 8in. dia. bags to carry my camper. they do have 13" travel. With the mods i made to the springs a few years ago, the springs cycle at 16" droop when free of the shocks and bags.
With all this teardown, I have had my rear shocks rebuilt and revalved by ICON and added a +3.5" lower shock mount allowing for full droop. No more limitations there. Compression is still limited by the internal airbag bumpstop and the ICON internal valving bumpstop.

Replaced the rubber brake lines with stainless steel lines in rear +5" over stock. This will allow for the full droop with slack to spare.
Went ahead and replaced all the rubber brakelines at the same time. 2 fronts (+4" for the icon ext. travel fronts) and the rear hardline to caliper lines (13")
Www.crownperformance.com

Readjusted all the traction control line brackets (bent them or redrilled them for lower mounting points) to allow lines not to be damaged during full droop.

At full droop, the spring still strikes the exhaust pipe in the rear. have to decide if i want to cut the last 1.5' off to clear the springs.

Daystar airbag cradles! By unmounting the airbag on one end, between the frame and axle, it allows the suspension to cycle freely. Uninhibited droop. Compression will be affected if there is pressure in the bag.

Because I'm running 8" HD airbags, they don't fit in the daystar airbag cradle bases.
I found 1 guy, searching the web far and wide. He has a dodge, and is running the daystar cradle flipped and mounted on the bottom of the bag, an alum. base on top of his ubolts to capture the cradle.. He says he has no issues running it this way
Running the Cradle mounted to the base of my bag will allow me to run any dia. airbag base. I will have to have some type of base to capture the cradle.
Heres my version:

bought a 12x12 1"thick sheet of UHMW IPX2000 from www.interstateplastics.com strongest stuff i could find.

cut it to match the cradle with a jigsaw. ID 4.25" with a 60*taper, OD 5.7"

now i will cut a 1/4" steel plate the dia. of the cradle to mount under the UHMW disk. then mount it to the existing airbag base on top of the ubolts. pics to follow when i pull it off in the am. weather permitting.

 

[Adventurous]

Wow, not sure how I missed this one. Killer build man! How long did it take to get your rebuilt 3rd back from JustDifferentials?

 

[aaen]

This thread has inspired me to do some.modifiicatiins to my 2010 tundra as well. the old girl has served me well and it is time I rewarded here with some toys, so she can keep me going for another 5years!

Thanks you very much for the build thread!! Not sure how I missed it either as I have been a long time.lurker in here., looking for good ideas for upgrades/etc.

Greatly appreciated.

Steve

 

[zidaro]

thanks guys. glad to be a guinea :sombrero: love playing around with all this stuff, esp. when it works out.

 

[bkg]

Updates on engine swap, please.

 

[zidaro]

Updates on engine swap, please.

engine swap?

you referring to the 3.4L 5VZ I'm swapping into my 4runner?:drool::drool:

Its an ongoing project. right now its stalled out so i can finish up this little dusy

still on the stand ;(

 

[zidaro]

going into this little toy

 

[zidaro]

rears all wrapped up.

fabbed up a 1/4" plate to sit under the uhwm post. countersunk the bolt.

after the last few years of abuse it was quite evident (cause i had to replace them) that the shock shafts were getting hammered by road debris. Nicks in the shafts destroyed the seals and innards. Sweet shock boots old school style and way less $$ than the current trends will solve that issue.

with the longer rod ends, the shocks extended length is now ~29-3/4", compressed at ~ 19-1/2"

gotta bleed the brakes before i throw on the rear tires

brake lines extended, traction control lines adjusted to allow for full droop, and vent line routed to just below fuel fill.

 

[zidaro]

Oh, and for the question about how long it took www.justdifferentials.com to build my thirds (front and rear with traction control). It was less than a full work week after they received my shipment that they shipped my thirds back. from Eastern Cali it took about 3 days ship both ways.
Very quick!!

 

[zidaro]

per Nitro for new ring n pinion gear sets:


BREAK-IN PROCEDURE:
In order to prevent damage to differential components it is essential to follow the break-in procedure after installation of a new ring & pinion. New ring & pinions will generate more heat initially after installation and can cause gear oil to break down, leading to premature failure. On your first drive, stop after the first 15 or 20 miles and let the differential cool for 20-25 minutes before proceeding. Drive conservatively for the first 500 miles following installation (avoid hard acceleration & towing). After completing standard break-in, tow for very short distances (less than 15 miles) and let the differential cool before continuing during the first 45 towing miles. Change the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new ring & pinion.

 

[huntsonora]

Can't wait to see how you like it

 

[bkg]

engine swap?

you referring to the 3.4L 5VZ I'm swapping into my 4runner?:drool::drool:

Its an ongoing project. right now its stalled out so i can finish up this little dusy

still on the stand ;(

some of us live vicariously....

 

[zidaro]

some of us live vicariously....

some of us apparently spend way to much time (and $$) in their garages wrenching on crap, instead of wheeling whatcha got!

I need to get out

 

[zidaro]

2nd Gen. TUNDRA 2007+ front 9" clamshell differential removal

nothing too crazy here, just couldn't find any info on removal of the 9" Tundra front Diff.

Start by securely jacking truck up off ground, remove tires, remove front and mid skid plates. Drain diff oil.

You'll notice i already removed the Front Coils. Doesn't change anything for the diff removal, i just sent them off to be rebuilt while i had the front end apart.

Passenger side ready to start.

using a putty knife, tap off the spindle cap. mine was on there good and it took a couple nervous whacks, try not to tweak it so it seals good later.

39mm impact socket to remove the spindle nut. comes off easy with a gun, but you could slip a screwdriver into the rotor fins to lock it off if you were just using a breaker bar

remove the cotter pin and then tie rod. i used a tool, but a brass drift on a flipped nut works good too. don't destroy the boot using a fork tool.

I'm not running a sway bar, but if you still have one, remove the sway bar ends off the lower control arm.


then remove the lower ball joint cap. 22mm socket

using a brass hammer to gently tap on the axle shaft, pull the hub/rotor spindle assembly outward. you can see i used my knees to pull the assembly away and then support it once it was free. this frees the axle shaft and CV from the outer spindle completely. Spindle can then be moved to one side or other for clearance/access to the CV.

i supported the spindle with a tiedown off the coil tower, and supported the CV while removing it with a bungee

Finally you get to crawl under your truck!

Remove the CV shafts from the differential. they are held in by c-clips and must be tapped out to release the inner c-clip. nerve racking!
notice i am using a pry bar (and a hammer on it). the pry bar is on the SECOND indentation/recess on the CV housing. Don't use the first or you risk cracking the fragile aluminum housing flange at the outer seal. not the end of the world, but avoid it.
whack it a few times and the inner axle will release.

Now get back out from under there and go do all this to the other side!!!!


Both CV's out :wings:
now:
remove the driveshaft from third output flange. 14/17mm, the bolts are pressed in and stay. Driveshaft will sit on crossmember without issue.

unplug ADD motor harness. mine was a *****. have to unplug before you drop the third down or you'll damage the harness

looking up between the third and the steering rack crossmember you will see a 12mm bolt and bracket with a vacuum line attached. unplug upper line. no need to remove the bracket.

Time to drop the third!!

The third is attached in 3 places to the frame.
1 bolt on DS rear of pumpkin- remove this one last.
PS has a cast bracket with 2 bolts on the third, one bolt thru frame crossmember and has a nut on top.
DS has a black cast bracket with same. I removed the single bolt to frame bushing.

I chose to completely remove the black cast bracket on the passenger side from the frame and third.
PS-

DS with bolt and bushing removed

With the two Lateral support brackets disconnected, the diff will hang on the one rearward bracket.
prepare yourself (and a buddy if ones around) to support the diff. The Tundra 9.0" is about 65# before you add an ARB
when yur ready, lift the diff back into place and remove the last bolt. then tilt the front down and slip it out (doesn't that part just sound so easy!!) don't waste the ADD module

on the ground! take another shot. you've earned it.

 

[zidaro]

and the rebuilt third clamshell back from www.justdifferentials.com

oh so important arb airline bulkhead fitting

Nitro Heat Treated 4.88 gears
ARB locker!!! #RD141
installed and tested at JT!

notice for install i have assembled the two black lateral frame brackets to the clamshell assembly.



get it under the truck ( i used a furniture dolly). Lift it up into place with the pinion output flange angled up first toward the driveshaft, then rotate it into position and slip the first bolt up thru the bushing and into the differential. My thought is that the rear diff./frame bushing is the easiest to line up first. This is not easy for one person, but can be done. I did it solo by laying it on my hips and then lifting it up my legs, was able to hold it into place with my knees and get that bolt threaded.

heres the bolt that is started first. from DS.

now that it is in place, secure your vent hoses in their proper place, route the arb airline( i ran mine up the PS following the ADD harness into the engine bay where i mounted a Powertank ARB manifold.

once your ready to finalize the third install, lift it into place and thread the two front diff. bolts. Now is the time to reinstall or install your diff drop spacers if you run them, cuz thats where they go.