100 series factory Aux tank

[rusty_tlc]

FWIW mine is "Type A" in the diagram and except for an errant California fuel vapor collector once in a while it works fine. Simple.

So is there a restriction plate or no? It's tough to tell from the cross section view.

INMHO, your in tank fuel pump is fine and I think you're splitting hairs. If you use George's ECU (like all 80 owners are doing), your transfer logic is a done deal. It uses the Empty signal from the sub tank to stop the transfer pump (your in tank pump in this case).

If you follow the plumbing that the 80 owners are using (copy George's design) then there is no chance of overfilling the main tank. The fuel simply recircs until you turn off the transfer pump.

As far as a filler neck, why not go the route of what lots of domestics do and have a filler neck coming out of the driver side rear wheel well? Too redneck? It doesn't have to come out much as it'll still be buried inside the wheel well. Sure it'll get dirty from road grime but the design is very simple and effective. The dual filler neck resides in the same area just about anyway (behind a splash shield).

Just a thought.

Not splitting hairs, jus bouncing around ideas out loud. Following the 80 series model is looking more and more likely.
I'm not crazy about locating the filler inside the fender well. Not adverse to a second filler neck mind you, just not that location. Way to many chances to contaminate the fuel or damage the filler cap.

That is way too redneck for a nice car like a 100 series IMHO.

I think I missed the part about Rusty's tank already having an in tank pump. That is a major score, and I don't see why it wouldn't run with George's logic board, since 12v is 12v. Very cool and trick.

All the more reason to source the dual filler. I think the filler needed is the one where the lower outputs of the filler are not parallel, but at a slight angle to each other. Guys were adapting those to 80 series trucks but I believe they came form 100 series trucks in Oz.

Disclaimer: I do not own a 100 series Land Cruiser but have seen them at the mall. ie I could be wrong about the whole filler thing.

It's a little late for me to worry about getting a reputation as a red neck isn't it?:sombrero:

The jury is still out on if the alleged pump actually exist, I have not verified that it does.

 

[TangoBlue]

As far as a filler neck, why not go the route of what lots of domestics do and have a filler neck coming out of the driver side rear wheel well? Too redneck? It doesn't have to come out much as it'll still be buried inside the wheel well. Sure it'll get dirty from road grime but the design is very simple and effective. The dual filler neck resides in the same area just about anyway (behind a splash shield).

Redneck? I resemble that remark! For the Tacoma there was a company that made an auxiliary tank that featured the filler in the wheel well. What I've learned from my research is that the filler often was a magnet for all sorts of dirt and mud and required hosing off to fill the tank to avoid contaminating the fuel. Also, another issue not uncommon was that if you actually wheeled the truck with tires larger than normal, which is pretty standard for most of us, the wheel when stuffed in the well would have a tendency to rip off the fuel cap. With larger than stock tires you don't often have room for a shield of any sort, nor do you wan to lose any articulation.

I think it makes for a good case to go the dual filler route where it's tucked out of harms way.

 

[hoser]

Spresso, on the second diagram you posted, do you have Type A or Type B of the filler necks?

 

[locrwln]

Get the dual neck that Dan has. Use the internal pump to fill the main tank. See if you can source the switch that Man-a-Fre sells with their 80 aux tank. It works and shows the fuel level in the aux tank. I have it and really like it.

Remember you need to keep the OBDII happy for smog purposes, if you start adding the wrong stuff and the computer detects a problem with the fuel cap, then on goes the light and on goes the problem.

Spend a little money to do it right.

JMHO

Jack

 

[rusty_tlc]

FWIW mine is "Type A" in the diagram and except for an errant California fuel vapor collector once in a while it works fine. Simple.

Spresso, on the second diagram you posted, do you have Type A or Type B of the filler necks?

I think he has the A type, don't ask me why.:elkgrin:

 

[rusty_tlc]

Get the dual neck that Dan has. Use the internal pump to fill the main tank. See if you can source the switch that Man-a-Fre sells with their 80 aux tank. It works and shows the fuel level in the aux tank. I have it and really like it.

Remember you need to keep the OBDII happy for smog purposes, if you start adding the wrong stuff and the computer detects a problem with the fuel cap, then on goes the light and on goes the problem.

Spend a little money to do it right.

JMHO

Jack

I just don't want to spend more than I need to to get it right. All I want is a system that works, it really doesn't have to be slick or look OEM for me to be happy.

 

[hoser]

I think he has the A type, don't ask me why.:elkgrin:

Doh... missed it the first time!:smilies27

FWIW, Camping Labs has the entire Front Runner set-up for $700 shipped. That is a good deal.

 

[AndrewP]

Doh... missed it the first time!:smilies27

FWIW, Camping Labs has the entire Front Runner set-up for $700 shipped. That is a good deal.

Yes-but I have held that set-up in my hands and the filler is just barely acceptable. Actually, it's borderline. The tank itself is very nice.

That Toyota gated filler is a work of art and solves a lot of problems. If Rusty Dan's wife is the targeted end-user, it is really the only player on this field.

Pulling the pump out of the tank is a 10 minute job. Open it up and tells us what's there!

 

[ontheroof]

I am sorry, but I think the only way to go is the dual filler that oem. The flapper valve is so nice. And so easy to use. The aftermarket dual fillers I have seen in person are just crap. I mean nice, but so much added work and just not worth it. I am now going with a larger main tank so I don't need to worry about this, but what a pain in the butt to eye and check and tilt with the other models my buddy tells me. OEM are few and far between, but well worth the price. I have seen them go for the 150-200 range on ebay aus, but 250ish plus range on use ebay. It's more money up front, but if you ever move or whatever I think you would have so much less trouble with the oem if you EVER have to deal with emissions.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Yes-but I have held that set-up in my hands and the filler is just barely acceptable. Actually, it's borderline. The tank itself is very nice.

That Toyota gated filler is a work of art and solves a lot of problems. If Rusty Dan's wife is the targeted end-user, it is really the only player on this field.

Pulling the pump out of the tank is a 10 minute job. Open it up and tells us what's there!

I'll pick up the tank from the storage unit this weekend and check out the pump and sending unit.

 

[hoser]

Yes-but I have held that set-up in my hands and the filler is just barely acceptable. Actually, it's borderline. The tank itself is very nice.

That Toyota gated filler is a work of art and solves a lot of problems. If Rusty Dan's wife is the targeted end-user, it is really the only player on this field.

Ah, good to know. I have the same dual filler as Spresso but am on the lookout for the flapper/gated style since the smog techs don't like the lack of restrictor (leaded fuel).

 

[roscoFJ73]

Rosco, by flapper valve, I mean there is a valve inside that diverts fuel to one side or the other.

I guessed thats what you meant but I didnt see a flapper. I guess it would need something to stop the fuel sloshing out though

 

[rusty_tlc]

Ah, good to know. I have the same dual filler as Spresso but am on the lookout for the flapper/gated style since the smog techs don't like the lack of restrictor (leaded fuel).

When was the last time you saw leaded fuel anywhere?
I think the restrictor plate requirement is asinine, but the law is the law.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Yes-but I have held that set-up in my hands and the filler is just barely acceptable. Actually, it's borderline. The tank itself is very nice.

That Toyota gated filler is a work of art and solves a lot of problems. If Rusty Dan's wife is the targeted end-user, it is really the only player on this field.

Pulling the pump out of the tank is a 10 minute job. Open it up and tells us what's there!

After much reflection I am convinced the fapper is the way to go. The Cruiser Princess doesn't fuel any of the cars often but she drives the 100 enough that she might wind up needing to fill it up. In addition I agree, the OEM filler is an elegant solution.


Right now I have this much nailed down;

• Factory over the spare aux tank - done
• Dual filler with selector valve - need part number, source from Spressos man in Japan.
• Use internal fuel pump and sending unit for fuel transfer and monitoring aux tank - Verify pump and sending unit are there and functional.

Yet to DO;

• Identify additional "Toyota only" parts required and source/order them
• Create list of ancillary parts required and procure them
• Resolve fuel transfer control automatic vs manual start stop.

 

[rusty_tlc]

INMHO, your in tank fuel pump is fine and I think you're splitting hairs. If you use George's ECU (like all 80 owners are doing), your transfer logic is a done deal. It uses the Empty signal from the sub tank to stop the transfer pump (your in tank pump in this case).

If you follow the plumbing that the 80 owners are using (copy George's design) then there is no chance of overfilling the main tank. The fuel simply recircs until you turn off the transfer pump.
....

How do I find George? Since I have the ability to design the circuit and fabricate a printed circuit boards his ECU would need to be a pretty bargain.

I suppose there is a write up on the 80's system someplace?