100 series factory Aux tank

24HOURSOFNEVADA

Expedition Leader
No worries on the implication, sometimes things come across "Harsh" in text when they weren't meant to be.



I have the 100 tank but no 80 tank for reference. The 100 tank has three wires from the sending unit,


For your reference, here's the 80 series OEM sending unit that I placed in my Long Ranger aux tank. If you look hard you can see the three wires.

100_1746.jpg



100_1747.jpg
 

alia176

Explorer
I dropped the spare and the winch assembly this afternoon.
It looks like the captive nuts are already there for the tank straps.
We will try it out tomorrow if I can find some M10X1 thread bolts. (I scrounged around in my misc nut and bolt tin and found a stud from my FJ40 transmission that fit the captive nuts so I know what size I need.)

You already have the captive nuts on the body? Wow, now that's forward thinking! I wonder why the 80's didn't come with them, interesting.
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
No worries on the implication, sometimes things come across "Harsh" in text when they weren't meant to be.






For your reference, here's the 80 series OEM sending unit that I placed in my Long Ranger aux tank. If you look hard you can see the three wires.

100_1746.jpg



100_1747.jpg
Trust me I would never get pissey with someone who gave me 5 Gallons of gas at Saline Hot Springs and wouldn't take any money in return.:bowdown:

You don't happen to have the pin-out for the sending unit connector do you? It looks identical to mine.
You already have the captive nuts on the body? Wow, now that's forward thinking! I wonder why the 80's didn't come with them, interesting.

Yes...kinda strange for a 100 huh?! :)

A highly unusual twist of fate, Murphy pretty much follows me around 24/7.

:wings:
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
No joy on the sub tank switch from Christo. I wonder if the ARB style Contura switches will fit in the 100 dash? I an get them in a SPST momentary lit configuration.

It looks like the neck Spresso has will be the easiest to source. I still haven't totally given up on getting the flapper style.
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
You should be able to source the OEM switch from Dave Stedman. Even if you just order the switch solo the shipping should be very reasonable I would think.
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
You should be able to source the OEM switch from Dave Stedman. Even if you just order the switch solo the shipping should be very reasonable I would think.
That would make sense since I'm ordering the filler neck from him.

Is that a momentary switch?
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
I need a momentary to work with the PCB from george, per his site the OZ 80 series sub tank switch is what I need. I emailed him to see if he has a P/N.

It looks like it will fit the 100 dash, sound right to you Spresso?
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
I need a momentary to work with the PCB from george, per his site the OZ 80 series sub tank switch is what I need. I emailed him to see if he has a P/N.

It looks like it will fit the 100 dash, sound right to you Spresso?

I don't know if an 80 switch will just drop into a 100 dash blank or not. IIRC the 80 switch is a little more squared off at the corners? Might need a little Dremel action to massage the fit?
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
I don't know if an 80 switch will just drop into a 100 dash blank or not. IIRC the 80 switch is a little more squared off at the corners? Might need a little Dremel action to massage the fit?
No luck on a part number anyway so I might just use a different switch.
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
I got a few things done tonight.
Picked up the correct bolts which turned out to be a great decision they made the dry fit a lot easier.
DSCN1704.jpg


Also took some pictures;

The front cap nuts marked with the blue arrows
DSCN1708.jpg


close up of the DS front
DSCN1709.jpg


close up of the PS front
DSCN1710.jpg


Rear
DSCN1706.jpg


close up PS rear
DSCN1707.jpg


close up PS
Didn't take a picture but it's obvious.
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
The strap bolts are a PITA to get started, the factory bolts have a slight taper on the front part of the threads that help get them going. They are also just short enough to clear the cross member on the passenger side. I went out and bought a set of ratchet combo wrenchs just to get the 14mm one I needed for this project.
DSCN1712.jpg


Be sure to use a really stout set of jack stand for safety reasons.
DSCN1714.jpg


JK they were the only set I have tall enough to support the tank while I got the straps installed.
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
I was hoping using the right hardware would suck the tank up far enough to install the spare tire lift.
No suck luck but I figured out how they do it as a factory install.
My frame has nuts in the holes marked A. The row underneath marked B have no nuts. If the brackets are installed in the lower holes the lift mechanisim will clear the tank nicely. Looks like I will be using rivnuts after all.
DSCN1715.jpg
 

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